Delightful complexity

It beggars the mind to think that Ireland is listed as a wine producing country by the labyrinthine bureaucracy of the European Union.

Grapes do have, admittedly, a history in the Emerald Isle. Cistercian monks first planted vines in the late fifth century—most likely for the production of sacramental wine. I suspect they laboured long and hard without achieving the quality of their Burgundian brethren. Vineyards were, therefore, not exactly widespread. Up to the 16th century, Ireland was more noted for its numerous distilleries. Most of these were illegal and paid no duty to the crown. Beer, of course, was a favourite among the masses. Only the gentry could import wine for their liquid gratification. All this meant one could not find a vineyard to save one’s life up to 1996.

Why did some brave, foolhardy souls wake up one morning that year, decide to buck the odds and make Irish wine? The climate might have been one factor. Caressed by the Gulf Stream, Ireland can grow tropical palms in the south and along its eastern shoreline. Assuming sufficient sunshine, fruit will ripen and allow wine to be made.

I believe the amount of land under vines in Ireland is less than the amount planted in PrinceEdwardCounty. Most of their vineyards— located in the southeast counties— cultivate the usual vinifera suspects, sometimes producing less than 1,000 bottles per year. You have to admire their passion.

Since I am planning a visit with my Mum, I will get back to you on the taste profiles of these Irish wines. But I make no promises.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I recently tried Huff Estates 2012 Pinot Noir, created by winemaker, Frédéric Picard. The fruit comes from both their SouthBay vineyards and their Estate vines. A few more years of vine maturity makes all the difference in the complexity of this wine.

Huff’s Pinot Noir is layered with nuances of forest berries and a suggestion of a kirschinfused Black Forest cake. The finish is violets and smoked bacon. The mix of both new and used French oak adds complexity.

Correctly priced at $29 per bottle, and with only two hundred cases made, this wine will disappear fast. It’s available, for now, at their winery in Bloomfield at 2274 County Road 1.