Distilled pleasures

The grape is a marvel. Either fresh or dried, it provides a source of food. When pressed into juice, it offers a wonderful thirst-quenching beverage. In the hands of the winemaker, it can be transformed into wine. And, refined even further, it provides the gift of brandy.

Two thousand years before Christ, the Mesopotamians understood the process of distillation— they used it primarily in the production of perfumes. The Moors brought distilling arts with them to North Africa, and introduced them to Spain shortly thereafter. They shared this knowledge with monasteries that used it for the production of medicines. But someone had the brilliant idea to distill wine, and by the 12th century it became commonplace: introduced to the courts of Europe as “burnt wine” (hence the name brandy).

As an aside, monasteries in Scotland and Ireland also shared the Arab knowledge of distillation. They lacked grapes, however, and so tried to the more plentiful crop of barley. And so “whisky” was (in the still) born. So much for the urban myth of the Celts making whisky way back, in the mists of time…

But, getting back to our story, which grape was best suited to brandy? “Trebbiano” grapes are among the most commonly planted in Italy, producing fresh wines best consumed when young or blended with other grapes. (The most notable example would be the Orvieto white wines from Umbria.) This varietal is also used in the production of balsamic vinegars. And, it is the same varietal used in the Cognac region of France for the production of brandy (except they call it “Ugni Blanc”).

Cognac is wine that is double-pot distilled and barrel aged. The number of years in barrel determines the grade. Cognacs are blended from several vintages. For example, a grade of V.S.O.P indicates the youngest brandy in the mix has a minimum of four years barrel aging, but when older barrels are blended in, the average wood age would be much older.

If you would consider a sherry as an aperitif, then a cognac is the perfect way to complete a perfect dinner. By doing so, you can enjoy the complexities and flavors that grapes offer, from the beginning to the end of your evening.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I revisited a wine this week that I thought would be a great match to Lili’s recipe.

Huff Estates, 2010 Merlot ($19.95) is crafted by Frederic Picard from grapes sourced from the bench in Niagara. The color is majestic and the nose inviting: layers of cherry, raspberry compote and earthy tobacco. The palate is warm and lingering, with flavors of cherry, allspice and Balkan plums. The tannins are moderate and the complete package is a mouthful of delight.

The Merlot is available at the L.C.B.O or at the winery, where you can taste this wine and the balance of their portfolio.