Elevated flavour

Last week we discussed the effect of the cold ocean currents on the growing cycle of vineyards. This week we look at the impact of altitude.

Higher altitude vineyards in Europe are in the Alps, the Pyrenees and the upper reaches of Duero river Portugal. Usually no higher than 800 metres, the effect of altitude is not as dramatic as South America.

Chile benefits from the cooling impact from the Humboldt current—and its rain—that is trapped by the Andes mountains. The high altitude vineyards of western Argentina, on the other side of this range, lie in a rain shadow. The desert regions of Mendoza and St. Juan must therefore depend on rigorously controlled irrigation to grow grapes. In Chile, vineyard site selection is determined by proximity to the cooling breezes from the Pacific. In Argentina, site selection is purely determined by altitude and access to water.

Altitude also has a direct effect on temperature, the most important being a drop in temperature of .6 degrees for every 100 metres in elevation. As you get closer to the tree line, the difference between day and night temperatures becomes more extreme. Mendoza vineyards start at an altitude of 900 metres and continue up to 1,600 metres. On top of this, Mendoza and St. Juan are basically desert, whose sand does not retain heat once the sun sets over the Andes. (Think of the difference in temperatures on your toes in beach sand between a sunny day and a cold night.) On the other hand, the snowy peaks provide the full effect of the sun’s reflection during the daytime. This heat creates a crucible in which the fruit ripens, much like the northern RhôneValley.

Adapting to the favourable effects of altitude has allowed the winemakers of Chile and Argentina to create rich, opulent wines that are made affordable here in Canada by advantageous exchange rates.

THIS WEEK’S PICKS
Lots of great new releases happening in The County.

Hillier Creek Estates will release a rosé this coming weekend to kick off the summer season. Priced at only $14 a bottle and available at the winery tasting room, you will want to stock up on this great wine to be sure you have it all summer.

Sugarbush Vineyards has released the latest vintage of their coveted Gewurztraminer. This wine has a devoted following and is apparently flying off the shelves at the tasting room.

Watch out for the release of the 2013 Chardonnay from Broken Stone Winery that will be available at the winery. Their latest vintage of the Pinot Noir, should be released soon.

Last, but not least, Keint-He Winery’s 2013 Voyageur Riesling is a delight. Made with Niagara fruit, this wine imparts a beautiful, ripe peach bouquet with a touch of the classic petroleum. The palate is generous with orchard fruit, a touch of residual sweetness and a balanced acidity. Perfect for summer dining.