Every rose has its thorn

If you have had occasion to visit a European vineyard, especially in France or Italy, you probably remember rosebushes gracing the end of the grape rows. What a marvellous culture that pairs vines with roses.

Apart from the visual aesthetic, there is a practical reason, of course, why vineyard managers plant roses in this fashion. Rosebushes are susceptible to the same moulds and mildews as grapevines: positioned at the end of a row, they act as an inexpensive early warning system. If the roses suffer, the vineyard manager can readily presume his vines are also under assault. Examples of this practice can be found in vineyards throughout the world, from as far away as the Margaret River in Australia, to as closeby as our very own Huff Estates. You will find roses at the head of vine rows when you drive into the parking area of the Huff winery, and also at their vineyards located in South Bay.

Is this practice for pragmatic reasons, since Frédérick Picard is a French winemaker, or is it because Lonny Huff, as a world-travelled oenophile, loves the visual impact? Does it matter? Why not accept that a tried-and-true method not only has scientific merit, but at the same time it can delight the soul?

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I heard whispers of a new winery opening on Closson Road in Hillier. So I paid a visit to Broken Stone Winery mid-week, only to discover this family-owned winery is only open on weekends.

On Saturday I set forth again, determined to experience a weekend treat that could have come straight from the pages of Brigadoon. I was welcomed to this new world by an overly enthusiastic, and somewhat territorial, Labrador retriever. (Go figure.). While he kept a watchful eye on the vineyard’s bounty, I was served up as pretty a couplet of County Pinot Noir as you might expect from such young vines.

The 2010 Pinot Noir was a third leaf, and showed exceptional fruit nuances with an antiqued brick hue. The 2011, however, showed in completely different way: with a cherry red hue and loads of fruit on the palate, finishing with an intriguing lingering spice.

The winemaker/grape-grower, Tim Kuepfer, is solidly backed by three associates—a beloved wife and two daughters—who watch over the winery. On weekends they offer exceptional County Pinot Noir at an amazing price of $18 per bottle. With such a modest yet passionate production, you can expect it to disappear very quickly. Secure a supply before it is too late.