Excesses of excess

In the early days of the new Republic of the United States, citizens began drinking corn whiskey at an unprecedented rate—drawing down the fury of several Founding Fathers. Even though Europeans were used to the excesses of alcohol consumption at home, they marvelled at the free flow of alcohol in America.

By 1820, the average yearly consumption was around six gallons for every man, woman, and child. (Today it is in the range of one gallon per person.) Alcohol was consumed throughout the day (including breakfast). Today we have the coffee break, while back in the mid 1800’s it was the whiskey break (or in hobbit-speak, elevenses. With the only respite to alcohol consumption being Sunday morning church, it totally beggars the mind that the new republic thrived and grew.

It all began when farmers settled fertile lands west of the Appalachians. They began to bring in huge crops that exceeded the needs of the country. Just like the E.E.C. butter mountain in Europe, surplus corn piled up in the Ohio River Valley. Unless a secondary use for surplus product is found, its price will always plummet. What to do? Make corn whisky.

And so began the big bender, with Americans unaware of the social and health consequences related to so much alcohol being available. It became one of the first great health epidemics—shortening the lifespan of Americans. The damage to society fostered the beginnings of the temperance movement that culminated in Prohibition.

Ironically, this alcohol epidemic was the result of distilling surplus corn, while in today’s world we face an epidemic of obesity caused by the intake of too many calories— many of which are secondary products of corn.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
With Thanksgiving now behind us, we can look forward to the increasingly popular Pumpkinfest parade this weekend in Wellington. People simply adore pumpkin pies, soups and oven-roasted seeds.

Local wines that match the complexity and range of ingredients in these various dishes include gewürztraminer, off-dry riesling and chenin blanc. For pumpkin desserts, select a late-harvest riesling.

Let’s keep our fingers crossed for good weather and enjoy Pumpkinfest.