First kiss

In the last 200 years there seems to be a correlation between the appearance of comets prior to harvest and the quality of a wine vintage. Whether or not this a true is akin to debating how many angels can balance on the tip of a pin.

Consider if you will, however, “the great comet vintage” year of 1811 when a dessert wine from Bordeaux achieved a standard of greatness that today’s great winemakers still strive to create anew. You are likely familiar with this wine. Made from a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, Chateau d’Yquem, set the standard for this style of wine. In a good vintage, it tastes like your first kiss. When Robert Parker tasted the 1811 vintage in 1996, he gave it a perfect 100 point score — even more remarkable when you consider the wine was 185 years old. It only goes to show the lasting power of wines if all natural conditions are perfect.

Each vintage is special: Burgundy’s of the mid-1940s were awful; Bordeaux’s of the 1960s remain a benchmark.

In the County we continue to seek a standard to determine the quality and success of a vintage. The task is difficult, since we continue to push the envelope of what is possible and profitable. Our pioneers in this endeavour have not only stayed the course, but have also led the way for others to bring their passion and their pride to our County.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
In keeping with the dessert wine theme, I want to introduce you to a scrumptious wine produced by Glenn Symons, of Lighthall Vineyards. The 2012, Muté ($30) is almost like a guarded secret, in that you must inquire as to what is in that retroshaped bottle. The answer: a dessert wine made from unfermented Vidal grapes and wine spirit. The results are a citrusflavoured viscosity, spiced Marsala aromas, and a warm, sherry-like finish. Match the Muté with Fois Gras, a stinky French cheese, or a Black Forest cake and you will not be disappointed.

To indulge in this treat, you will have to wander down to the vineyard at 308 Lighthall Road, in Milford—currently open on weekends only. It is well worth the drive. Apart from making a super addition to your cellar, these unique retro 500ml bottles make wonderful, thoughtful gifts. You will love the story and love the wine.