Forgotten history

There are countries with a history of wine that has been all but forgotten. Such is the case with India.

Traders from the Persian Empire introduced viniculture to India as early as 4,000 BC—not long after wine was first produced in Georgia/Armenia. The indigenous people of India welcomed this new intoxicating beverage. Vineyards were planted not only for wine (as in Afghanistan), but also for table grapes and raisins. As time moved forward, wine became exclusive to the upper caste, while a beer made from millet became the option everyone else. (Nothing seems to change!)

From then on, wine had its ups-and-downs in its history with India. Wine production fell under the rule of the Mughal Emperors, who prohibited the consumption of alcohol. Even so, there are records that some were fond of “burnt wine”, otherwise known as brandy. Somewhat later, Portuguese explorers—having circumnavigated the globe—finally discovered Goa. They established a trading post and introduced a fortified wine, similar to port, that had the ability to survive a long sea voyage. This wine quickly gained popularity, and made the locals very happy to have been “discovered”. Shortly thereafter, the British East Indian Company arrived and, with sufficient pomp and ceremony, planted vineyards to make regular and fortified wine—to maintain that stiff upper lip of the Raj. Joking aside, the wines produced in this era were exceptional: the British-introduced European wine methodology gave results to be showcased, not only in India, but to also back in the United Kingdom.

As in Europe, vineyards in India suffered the devastation of the phylloxera epidemic. Unlike Europe, however, zealous replanting was not a priority in India. Up to, and even after independence, wine and alcohol consumption was frowned upon in general — for both secular and religious reasons. In many of the Indian states, the production, sale or consumption of any form of alcohol was prohibited.

Next week, I will outline the re-emergence of the wine industry in India.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
a weekend vineyard lunch, the Terracello Winery also produces wines that embrace. The 2014 Pinot Nero (Noir) is a delight. It hits all the correct notes on the nose, with hints of smoked bacon and Spice Island mace, wrapped around red berry. There is soft red raspberry and cherry on the palate—and a sharp, cleansing finish. This pinot bears decanting to allow the wine showcase its true self.

Winery owner Anthony Auciello, who is also the winemaker and on-the-weekend pizza maker, produced this tasty treat, at $35 per bottle. It is only available at the winery, on County Road 1 just west of Huff Estates Winery.