Wine in the beard

The emperor Charlemagne expanded and consolidated the Holy Roman Empire from the North and Baltic seas, south of the Alps and Pyrenees. This is an important fact as now many of the wine-producing areas fell under the influence of the bureaucracy inherent to such an Empire. Lands were granted to Nobles and Monasteries and the Rhine became the major highway for all goods among which was a newly flourishing wine trade. Once again, a wine-for-wool trade was negotiated with the King of Mercia across the channel in England. Wine was shipped to the trading ports of the Hansa cities located on the Baltic and traded on to Poland and even Russia.

Most important, was the hands-on approach Charlemagne brought to the Empire. It is said that, while travelling up the Rhine, he noticed the snow melted first on the steep, south-facing, slopes of Johannisberg, in Rheingau (meaning “Rhine district”), so he ordered the planting of vines. A similar story in Burgundy tells that in 775, he deeded the Hill of Corton to the Abbey of Saulieu. And to this day the prestigious wine produced from this vineyard is named Corton-Charlemagne.

A less well known fact is that Charlemagne laid down laws regarding hygiene in wine production, and, in what is most likely an urban myth, he stipulated only white varietals be produced, as red wine stained his beard. I believe this to be a myth as it is recorded that he was “moderate in his eating and drinking for he hated to see drunkenness in any man.”

The origin of the tasty cheese fondue lies deep in the valleys of Switzerland, according to the Swiss. When the passes were blocked by winter snow the families depended on the fruits of their labor during the growing seasons. There was cheese to be made, wheat to be harvested and grapes to be pressed all in enough quantity to sustain a family or community throughout the winter months, as they did not have the option of dashing to the store if provisions ran out.

The local wines were tart with a fair amount of acidity and, still today, the Fondant produced in Switzerland reflects this style and flavor profile.

Strangely enough the best beverage to enjoy with a cheese fondue is hot tea. But we prefer wine.

I recommend the Trumpour’s Mill, 2008 Pinot Gris from the Grange of Prince Edward. The wine shows a touch of colour resembling vintage silk; a hint of pear on the nose; and, the flavour of ripe peach and Cox Pippen apple with sufficient acidity to cut through the richness of this dish.

A second option is the 2008, unoaked, Chardonnay from Huff Estates Winery. Frederick Picard has crafted this very approachable wine using grapes sourced from Niagara. It shows a pale amber hue with a nose of lightly spiced pears. The palate is pear and citrus, which makes it a great match with a cheese fondue.