Globetrotting grapes

The over 5,000 grape varietals in the world fall into two major categories: Vitis Vinifera, predominant in Europe, and Vitis Labrusca native to North America. Despite this large number of varietals, winemakers tend to create wines from a limited palette. When I have the opportunity to taste something outside this classic range, I usually leap to the occasion.

In California, I was given the chance to taste a wine made from Charbono grapes, also known in France as Corbeau de Savoie. Less than 80 acres of this varietal is planted in California, some in Napa Valley and the balance in the Amador wine region. It is rarely planted nowadays, in either France or Italy (where it was thought to be related to the Dolcetto grape). It was widely planted in Piedmont, Italy prior to the phylloxera epidemic of the 1880s, and was a strong competitor to both Barbera and Nebbiolo. Today it almost nonexistent in Italy.

Fortunately, the plucky grape made its way to South America, where it became known as Bonarda. In Argentina, its production is second only to Malbec. Historically used for bulk, blended wine, Bonarda has, in the last 15 years, found itself in the spotlight, as winemakers began to produce single-varietal Bonarda wines that are both a delight when young, and sublime in character when barrel-aged.

Charbono wine shares many similarities with Barbera: huge, rich, berry fruit aromas, a palate of red fruit and smoke, with big tannins and—in case of the Californian wine—high acidity.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Kimberly and I had a fabulous Family Day. After a great brunch at the Agrarian, we headed off to the Hinterlude festivities at Hinterland Wine Company. Like one big industry party, everyone celebrated the close of the long weekend with oysters and smoked pork sandwiches. The centrepiece was, of course, their newest sparkling releases.

Nothing says Yum with a capital Y like a glass of this sparkling rosé. The 2011 Hinterland Rosé ($37) is handcrafted in the “méthode traditionelle” from estate grown fruit, and showcases the uniqueness of Prince Edward County terroir. It is very, very good. Tiny bubbles tease the nose with flavours of forest strawberries and cream caressing the palate. A crisp finish leaves you wanting more. This might be best described as a seductive wine, which is a perfect ending to the Valentine’s weekend.

Hinterland Wine Company is well worth the visit, with a wonderful selection of sparkling wines to sample, and great hospitality.