Harvest time

At this time of year, all things within the vineyard come down to harvest, and rain (such as fell on Monday) can make the process miserable. The rows turn into mud, making travel through the vines difficult. But if the brix are correct, you are obliged to harvest. And even if certain varietals have not achieved the required brix, rain at this stage can cause sour rot—so instant remedial attention is required, which means bring home the crop.

Mud will be everywhere. Depending on the vineyard, harvest can be a combination of manual cropping, followed by a harvesting machine pass, with a final manual pass to gather any clusters that were missed. The fruit is then hauled to the crush pad and handsorted to avoid contamination by any suspect clusters.

And then we clean. Some winemakers will even make certain varietals undergo a “cold soak” prior to fermentation. This will deepen the colour and soften the astringency, particularly with pinot noir. (Even white varietals benefit by the removal of bitter astringent compounds.) This process usually takes between five and 11 days, during which the temperature will range between 40º and 50ºF.

The fun has just begun. Grape skins, stems and pips will rise to the top, and if the cap is not punched down, it will dry and then diminish the colour, flavour and astringency of the wine. Punching down should occur thrice daily to introduce oxygen into the selected yeast and prevent the growth of harmful bacteria. Without this blending, the high temperature of fermentation would create bacterial-friendly pockets.

Sometimes fruit clusters are sealed in a container into which carbon dioxide is pumped. Mostly associated with the Beaujolais region, this “carbonic maceration” will stimulate fermentation. However, Louis Pasteur noted in the late 1800s that such wines had very different flavour profiles from the original, untreated grapes. As always, the jury is still out—with some in favour and others against.

At this time of year two things are happening: the harvest is coming in and the new wines are on the cusp of release. Just in time for Thanksgiving, the signs can be seen on the highways and byways of the County. And, as we come closer to the Christmas season, there will be even greater options available—in a range of price points and styles to appeal to all.