How to kill a pox

In the late 19th century, the European government launched a contest offering reward incentives to anyone providing solutions to save the devastated European wine industry and vineyards. Thousands of recommendations were offered ranging from the age-old remedy of burying a toad under each vine to beating the ground to drive the pests away. It was determined that if a vineyard was flooded for a length of time the bugs would drown. This strategy was ineffective in the sloping vineyards with good drainage.

Science entered a solution that carbon disulphide was deadly to phylloxera when injected into the ground. Unfortunately, it killed all living creatures and, if liberally applied, also killed the vines; when exposed to high temperatures, it emitted sodium dioxide gases deadly to humans.

Watering vineyards with a solution of sodium was successful but only the first-growth vineyards in Bordeaux could afford it on an ongoing basis. In other areas, the pests were controlled by soil injection and fumigation, usually applied by the tedious task of injecting each plant individually, a process that added a substantial amount of labour to an already labour-intensive job.

It was determined that North American rootstocks were mostly resistant to phylloxera, which affected only the leaves rather than killing the root. So, experimentation began with grafting French vine-tops to American rootstocks. Europeans were concerned that the typical strawberry and foxy nuances prevalent in the American wines would alter the flavour purity of the European wines.

These concerns proved cautionary and by the turn of the century massive plantings of European vines on American rootstock began.To this day there is no remedy for the infestation of phylloxeria in vineyards that are not planted with grafted rootstock.

Next week: the Southern Hemisphere and all its glory.

This is the perfect time of year to enjoy a County-made Rosé wine.We have a great selection of reasonably priced wines ranging from still to sparkling, which are crafted in various styles to please all palates. Chill a bottle to enjoy the sunset on the back deck or sip a glass at your favorite restaurant terrace with lunch as you kick back and settle into summer mode.

This week I tasted the refreshing 2010 Closson Chase Rosé ($19.95) by winemaker Deborah Paskus. The hue of this wine is pale sun-washed pink, with a nose of strawberry, gala apple, wild rosemary and lavender. The palate is dry with fresh County strawberries, rhubarb, cherries, and a thirst quenching acidity, YUM!

Closson Chase Vineyards is located at 629 Closson Rd. in Hillier.