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Innovators
Redmond Walsh lived nearly all of his 94 years on the farm—120 acres of rich, rolling land between Hastings and Keene. By the time he had inherited the land—the fourth generation of Irish immigrants—it was already a well-established and productive farm. Large well-tilled fields produced crops on all sides of the large, rambling farmhouse. A large pasture south of the barns provided summer fodder. An ample woodlot to fuel the stove. A large garden teeming with fat strawberries for jams and preserves, tall onions with showy purple flowers, carrots, potatoes and turnips. He raised beef cattle, hogs, horses and chickens. Poultry, he would correct me.
My grandfather was raised on this farm. Raised his family there. His brother did the same next door. Another brother farmed the land behind him on the next concession. Descendants of those who made the journey from Ireland in 1825, landing at Port Hope, were scattered all over this countryside southeast of Peterborough. Most were farmers. But of course in the early part of the last century, the majority of Canadians were farmers—63 per cent of us lived in rural Canada.
Redmond was nearly 90 before he agreed to stop farming altogether. In his later years, he rented his land. Sold the hogs. He kept a couple of horses, a dozen cattle and a coop full of chickens. Poultry.
But eventually, he had to sell. He hated the idea. He hated that he would be the last Walsh on this land that had been bequeathed to him. But by the early 1980s, it was clear that 120 acres was no longer a viable farm. It wasn’t enough to raise a family. His only good option was to sell to the young and acquisitive neighbour to the west. The Grahams were good people—but it ground away at Redmond that there was no other interest in the farm. It was land to be consolidated. That was it. The house, the barns, the garden, the woodlot had become redundant. Pointless.
They still sit empty today—those that haven’t fallen. They make pretty pictures—the iconic forms of farming against the rolling hills of Asphodel Township. Sentimental reminders of another time. But that’s all.
It is a cliché to say that farming has changed. Except for the animals, their input and output, Redmond would scarcely know what to do in the barn today. Technology, automation and robotics have radically transformed the business. To stay competitive in commodity markets, farmers have been compelled get much bigger, to consolidate.
Left behind, however, are the barns, the outbuildings, and small farms.
In Asphodel, time will erase these structures. The small fields will remain fallow—until the fencerows are removed. There is nothing else to be done.
But in Prince Edward County, something else has happened. From the remnants of its farming traditions, enterprising folk have found new and creative ways to make these small farms and buildings work again. Wineries and vineyards have settled nicely into these niches and crevices left fallow for decades. They have blazed a trail for other growers—other innovators. Vegetables, produce, cheese, bread, sausage, beer, hops and spirits. A magnificent barn restoration north of Wellington will soon open as a unique and surprising inn.
The truly fascinating bit is that each of these businesses make something for which consumers will pay more. Drawing upon the soil, the natural beauty and the powerful County brand, these entrepreneurs are creating unique experiences and products. They are conjuring something far greater than the sum of the ingredients. In doing so, they are capturing a market of loyal and passionate consumers for whom price is secondary to the story or the experience. Folks who will come back time and time again.
The streets of Bloomfield and Wellington once ran red from the sloshing of truckloads of tomatoes headed to the cannery. But canned vegetables were a sector driven by price. When the market consolidated, local producers could no longer compete. An industry was erased in the blink of an eye.
A few decades later, however, and Vicki Emlaw has figured out how to move the common tomato upmarket— out of reach from low-cost, mostly offshore, competitors. It is an uncommon skill. She has gained passionate fans who will travel and pay more for her produce. In addition to elevating the tomato, she has adapted the marketing and distribution to the needs and desires of a growing market segment. Further, her farm on Morrison Point has become a summertime destination and experience. Vicki’s Veggies is a remarkable case study in agri- marketing and innovation.
In another corner of the County, Jenna Empey and Alex Currie are carving out a market for sauerkraut and kimchi as well as an assortment of fermented food and drink. Unimaginably, they are creating an innovative and value-added business from cabbage.
Elsewhere, growing number of folks are currently investing in beer making and related activities in Prince Edward County, rushing to capture a share of the rapidly growing market for craft beer in North America. Like the grape growers and many others in the County, their competitive advantage is the land, its traditions, the natural beauty and the County brand.
Those uncertain about where the County’s economy is headed and who is driving innovation, need to spend a few hours wandering around both the cheese show and the terroir exhibition this spring in Picton.Economic innovation is thriving in Prince Edward County. We need only to recognize it. Today we live in cities. More than 80 per cent of Canadians are urban dwellers. We long for rural and natural experiences. The busier our lives become, the more we need to connect with these experiences. That is the County’s competitive advantage. This is where innovators and entrepreneurs are creating opportunity. It is time our official plan caught up.
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