Lost in translation

If you take into consideration the range of grape varietals grown in Prince Edward County and the wide, eclectic selection of wines produced, you can say, without a doubt, that the local wine producers punch way above their weight. It is true the majority of these varietals are of French origin, however, you would be hard pressed to find so many growing within one appellation.

It is recognized that The County’s terroir shares many similarities to Burgundy, yet Chenin Blanc—typically grown in the Loire Valley—does very well here, despite completely different soil types and climate. Gewürztraminer, also happy in this area, is adjusting well away from their native lands, Alsace and Rhineland. The local expression of these varietals is similar, yet uniquely different.

The differences, however, are sometimes lost-in-translation with the expectations of the VQA tasting panels. This coveted designation status is awarded to wines that adhere to a familiar and inflexible taste profile, not necessarily  reflecting the unique qualities of the region, as expressed by the wine maker.

Within the County there are several sparkling wine producers, who can barely keep up with demand for their wine and consistently sell through their production. It would appear we have adopted the German model of exporting lots and lots of wine and keeping the best for the local market. Which begs a visit to our wineries, but keep an open mind and an inquiring palate and you will never be disappointed!

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Some weeks back, I tried an interesting blend of varietals expertly crafted by Vita Zalnieriunus, winemaker of By Chadsey’s Cairns. The moniker given to this wine is 3-Point Hitch, which caught me off guard, as there were only two varietals in this blend, estate-grown Gamay Noir and St. Laurent. The 3-Point Hitch is referring to a hook-up device on a tractor.

The aromas on this wine are leather infused spice with lots of fruit. The palate is a surprisingly generous mouthful of raspberry and cherry with a lingering fruit filled finish. In fact—for our Montreal smoked meat enthusiasts— this wine would be the quintessential partner to a Schwartz’s smoked meat sandwich, casting aside that intruder, cherry coke!

By Chadsey’s Cairns, 2012, 3-Point Hitch ($23), is a fun yet serious wine and is delicious paired with Mediterranean or Middle Eastern cuisine. It is only available at the winery, located at 17432 Loyalist Parkway, just west of Wellington.