Mulled wine

The recent snowfall and cold winter nights bring to mind cups of mulled wine enjoyed by the warmth of a fireside.

Mulled wine is a modern reinvention of a pre-Roman practice. The Romans themselves would follow this tradition, and tend to heat and flavor their wines during the winter months (especially those living in the northern extremes of the Empire). Hippocrates, the father of medicine, favored infusions of herbs mixed with wine to treat ailments. Truth be told, spicing the wine was a necessity: prolonged shelf life had yet to be worked out. In order to extend the drinkability, herbs, spices and honey were added.

The custom of spiced wine continued from the fall of the Roman Empire through the Middle Ages. Flavored wine was referred to as “Hippocras” and was considered very beneficial to the health. Mulled wine was commonplace at Winter Solstice and Christmas celebrations during this time. Each different northern kingdom seemed to have its own variation on mulled wine. One of the first “Vin Chaud” recipes comes from a mid-15th century French cookbook: many of the ingredients listed are still commonly used today.

In England, Charles Dickens immortalized mulled wine in his short book The Christmas Carol. Scrooge and Bob are portrayed enjoying a bowl of “smoking bishop”, a mulled wine made with port infused with spices and citrus fruit. (Other variations are the “smoking archbishop” made with Claret or the “smoking pope” made from Burgundy wine.)

Many other countries enjoy a heated winter beverage: Japan offers heated sake that is infused with ginger, and Brazil has heated wine that they serve in June. Germans heat Gluhwein with hot fire irons, and serve a little glass of schnapps on the side.

One thing that has changed over time is the addition of sugar, replacing honey in recipes. This is not necessarily a good thing: the more sugar you add, the harder it is for the body to process. I suggest going back to the practice of using honey (or even maple syrup that will impart a subtle hint of smokiness).

When I make a mulled wine I use this recipe:
1 750ml bottle of red wine (Cabernet Franc or Baco Noir)
1 pint water
3 cloves
1 large stick cinnamon
1/2 chopped nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon allspice
Zest of one orange
Zest of half a lemon
1 orange sliced
Sugar, maple syrup, or honey to taste

Add all ingredients, except wine, and bring to boil, reducing liquid to half. Add wine; then remove from heat and serve.

Happy New Year!