Mulling wine

Once again, it is the time of year to remember our family heritage and their old world traditions. Mulling wine is a custom found across Europe, with each country contributing a different name and recipe variation of this wonderful winter beverage. In A Christmas Carol by Charles Dickens, for example, Mrs. Cratchit prepared mulled wine to celebrate the holiday. Today, mulled wine is a standard après ski aperitif offered at the bars at the bottom of European ski slopes, in order to warm the body after a downhill run. But in years gone by, it was a beverage accessible only to the privileged. Many of its ingredients were not available to the common folk. Cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and citrus fruits were reserved exclusively for the ruling classes until the mid 1700s. From the 11th century until that time, mulled wine only warmed the hearts of the upper class. Nevertheless, this beverage enjoys a wonderful pedigree whose recipe depends on which country you care to visit. The constant in each recipe is wine, although quality can vary. There is always an amount of sweetener added (in early days honey and in later years cane sugar). And finally, dependent on trade, imported spices were added.

Nowadays we tend to take for granted all that we can so easily pick up in our local supermarket or L.C.B.O. We forget how truly special these once-a-year recipes were. In the past, mothers saved ingredients throughout the year to celebrate Christmas in a way distinctive to each family. Their recipes for seasonal food and drink dishes, unique to each culture, have been handed down to this day.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
There is nothing better than gathering with our families and preparing seasonal treats to celebrate the Christmas season. And this week Lili offers recipes to embrace a get-together to make Christmas cookies. There can be no better excuse to have fun with friends.

To accompany this gathering, try a bottle, or two, of Hinterland 2011 Ancestral ($23). This delight is made from Gamay Noir, in the fashion of an off-dry, slightly sweet bubbly.

The nose is pure spiced pear; tiny bubbles are delightfully clean on the palate, offering nuances of saucy pear and marmalade. The wine cracks home a wonderful 8 per cent alcohol, making it a great aperitif to accompany your Christmas baking. This is a splendid wine to celebrate with your friends and family.

Hinterland Wine Company is located at 1258 Closson Road, just west of Wellington.