New World Order

A wine event of seismic proportion took place in Paris on 24 May 1976. The 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay from the Napa Valley finished first in a blind tasting of American and French white wines. The 1973 Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon, also from Napa, finished first in the reds. Also known as the “Judgement in Paris,” the event captured the popular imagination— even inspiring some movie scripts. Do not assume, however, that this blind tasting in any way diminished the majestic opulence of a mature French wine: young New World American wines show better than do young Old World French wines.

Time and tide change everything, except the taste for scandal. In 2004 a documentary on the globalization of wine was presented at the Cannes Film Festival. Although produced by an American, the film proposed that American wine critics, in league with the deep pockets of large wine producers, were promoting the use of oak (especially in the production of the New World Chardonnay) at the expense of local “terroir”. Some prominent French winemakers later claimed that Americans, with their innate marketing sense, “over-oaked” and made wine that tasted of vanilla. Now while I agree that French and American oaks are different, you have to remember the majority of the American producers used French oak. In fact, it was the French who popularized the use of New World oak.

Could this be why French wine consumption dropped by almost 50 per cent since 1960? (I’m trying to start my own conspiracy theory here.) Or could it be that we care more about our health and safe driving these days? The fact of the matter is that the wine-laden lunch in France has gone the way of the dodo, the same as the three-martini lunch in North America. And while per capita wine consumption may have declined, France is still a major wine producer, and now looks to expand her export markets to Asia.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Recently, four of our County wine producers, along with top producers from Niagara, showcased their Chardonnays in the “Seriously Cool Chardonnay” competition in London, England. Cold climate Ontario Chardonnays, much like their Burgundian counterparts, share zesty citrus and mineral characteristics, with a naturally pronounced acidity.

I always enjoy the refreshing flavour profiles that Prince Edward County fruit reveals. This week, I suggest a trip to the Liquor Control Board of Ontario (or better yet, the wineries themselves) to peruse the County section for a wine that will warm the soul through these cold nights.