Nice yeasty nose

Last week I described the most common (and possibly the simplest to detect) bottling flaw: corked wine. Keep in mind, however, that defects do not always originate at the vineyard. Extreme temperatures during transport of imported wines, or improper bad storage within the licensed establishment, are factors beyond the control of the winemaker.

Here are three other readily discerned flaws and how to identify them.

Scents of burnt matches, mothballs and in extreme cases burnt rubber indicate overuse of sulfur dioxide, a common additive utilized for its antioxidant and preservative qualities.

Flavours of rancid peanut butter or green bell pepper (and worse) mean too many insects (particularly Asian ladybugs) were caught up in crushing the grapes.

Premature loss of colour, flavour and aroma comes from premature oxidation of wine, usually avoided by simply adding sulfur dioxide to the wine. (Organic winemakers, however, are prohibited from using chemicals. This potentially increases the possibility of premature oxidation in organic wines.)

Sometimes you encounter a devotion to tradition that is truly inspiring.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Such is the case with a new cider crafted by cider master Grant Howes of The County Cider Company. This product is eye-catching, from the get-go, with distressed labels and the cheeky moniker A Tortured Path. Given the name, you might think it refers to its morning-after hangover. However, upon consulting the label, I find that it is a manageable five per cent alcohol.

This cider is made from apples harvested from traditional European apple trees originally hybridized in the 14th century. These trees are hardy specimens, and are more resistant to disease. This, of course, means less chemical spraying. As an interesting twist, when they occasionally succumb to a disease called scab, it has a positive effect in concentrating the juice in the apple.

The cider has a nice yeasty nose, with tiny bubbles that readily dissipate. The palate is almost light Macintosh apple and caramel, with lightly toasted sesame seeds and a lime citrus on the end before a very clean finish. In truth, the name might refer how difficult it is to stop tasting this ambrosia.

This cider is a winner. It is the perfect beverage to accompany County Cider’s generous lunch offerings.