No dam water

I have been aware for quite some time, through the media, of the potential for severe drought in California. Until you set foot in the state—and see the drab brown shrubs and grasslands that should be verdant green this time of year—you cannot really understand the gravity of their problem. Winter rains have yet to arrive, and the lack of snowfall in the Sierras has left reservoirs seriously depleted. There’s no dam water.

Even though weather in the County can sometimes be severe, and every summer many of our wells run dry, it is hard to picture California’s plight. Imagine a state, with the same size population as Canada, whose governor must declare a state of emergency to restrict all water available to cities and farms.

California may have a longer growing season than us, but it is no advantage if you cannot irrigate crops. Mass production grape growers like Gallo or Constellation will be hard hit. No irrigation in the central valley means small (if any) crops. It will be the same for all water-dependent crops: Driscoll strawberries, Blue Diamond almonds, Hunt’s tomatoes…

The problem will not be so severe for those who practise an older “dry farming” method that was used before there was cheap government-engineered water. Boutique grape growers in the Santa Rita Hills or in the foothills of the Sierras may get by without massive losses. This, however, is a subject for next week.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Yesterday, I happily stumbled upon Redtail Vineyard’s 2012 Chardonnay, that was recently introduced in our local Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO). This handcrafted, small production wine is from a winery operating off the grid, much like Harwood Estates. Winemaker Gilbert Provost uses unfiltered fruit that is grown without chemicals on the estate. Geoff Heinricks consulted in the initial high-density planting of this unique vineyard—and Gilbert has brought forth the maximum expression of the grapes for this vintage.

This 2012 Chardonnay ($27.75) has a hue of washed straw and boasts aromas of ripe peach and papaya. The palate is a lingering blend of mandarin orange and almonds, with a warm, creamy finish. This is a keeper—to be laid down for a few years. Or, pair it with your favourite food now, confident that it will not disappoint.

Redtail Vineyard, is located 422 Partridge Hollow Road, in Consecon.