Noble rot

The Bordeaux region of France produces the iconic dessert wine, Sauterne from a blend of semillon, sauvignon blanc and muscadelle grapes. In a good vintage, a 375ml of Sauterne from Chateau d’Yquem can cost upwards of $100. However, a Sauterne from a lesser house can be purchased for less than $30.

What makes Sauterne so special is the effect of botrytis cinerea, or noble rot, which causes the grapes to become raisined, concentrating the juice and flavours. Ideally situated, the Sauterne region is one of the few areas that are commonly subject to noble rot. It does vary from year to year, so production and quality varies according to the vintage.

Since the yield from raisined grapes is greatly reduced, this style of wine tends to be expensive. But the complexity within this occasionstyle of wine, in a good year, is astounding. I am always taken in by the notes of Seville marmalade and apricots that burst on the palate and linger—and linger.

Although it is a dessert wine, Sauterne can be a most suitable accompaniment to a cheese board, and makes a sublime pairing with foie gras, either pan-seared or in the form of torchon.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Keint-he winery produced a 2008 botrytis-affected pinot noir— simply a delicious mouthful of unique wine, completely atypical of this varietal. It has all the attributes and flavour notes of a Sauterne. At $25 for a 375ml bottle, it is a bargain.