Of great interest

As the Roman Empire gained prominence and expanded, it exported the viticulture skills and vines it had received from the Greeks and Etruscans. The major wine producers of Europe exist today because ancient Rome spread these skills.

Cato, Pliny, Columella, and Palladius give their readers a well-defined picture of how wine was a daily part of Roman life and, more importantly, the techniques used in viticulture and winemaking. Many of these techniques are still followed as principles of modern winemaking. (Fortunately, Columella’s recommendation to boil wine in a lead vessel in order to concentrate the sugars has been discarded.) These writers left detailed information on grape varieties, trellis use and vineyard management of pruning, harvest and cellar cleanliness.

We learn that “Falernian wine” was so prized that demand outstripped production. In fact, there were doubts as to the authenticity of all the Falernian wine that was sold. The grape varietals used in this wine were Aglianico and Greco grapes, which had been introduced from Greece. (Another name given to Aglianico was Aminean, and Pliny described the planting of five sub-species or clones of this vine.) Its name came from the location of its vineyards on the upper slopes of Mount Falernus. It was a white wine with an exceptionally high alcohol level: Pliny the Elder observed that it would catch fire if a flame was applied. Falernian was produced from late-harvested grapes that were allowed to “maderise” in clay amphorae while aging for up to 20 years.

Pliny’s encyclopedia, Natural History, outlines many of the grape varietals that gained favour in the vineyards of Italy. He remarked that the Eugenia grape was best planted in the Colli Albani region. The Rhaetic grape, which found favor with Virgil, is believed to be related to the Refosco grape currently grown in northeastern Italy. The Allobrogica grape was seen as a varietal that grew well in higher altitudes and also grew well in cooler climes. (This varietal was introduced to the Rhône Valley, and some think it to be an ancestor of the Pinot family, while others think it to be more closely related to Syrah or Mondeuse Noire.)

Given this very small snapshot of the ancient varietals, we can readily see that then, as now, there was a great interest in wine.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Just tasted The Grange 2011 Brut Sparkling wine made in the traditional fashion. Tiny bubbles tickled the nose as I savoured the aromas of marzipan, biscuit and baked apple. The palate is a lemon cream soda with a dash of apple tarte tatin. A bright lingering finish completes the experience.

This is a wonderful wine with which to celebrate Valentine’s. It is available at the winery, located on Closson Road, for $30.