Of wine and volcanoes

In addition to clay, soil is composed of sand, silt, organic material and animal compost—along with mineral particles made of finely ground rock particles. The blend of these elements determines the specific productivity of the soil. (Sand, for example, facilitates drainage.)

Volcanic soil contains significant mineral elements ejected from the core of the planet. Volcanic eruptions cause a widespread distribution of ash that will eventually fall to earth. Lava flows create pumice, a light stone (currently popular in beauty salons as an exfoliant) that was used by the Romans as a form of light concrete. The aftermath of an eruption has significant immediate impact on surrounding regions, but it usually takes millennia for this mineral ejecta to break down into the micro-particles that have such an impact on wine.

The positive effects of this mineral reduction, however, are well-known to wine peplovers. The volcanic soil of Italy fosters the wonderful wines of Chianti; the eastern slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily are home to incredible wines from local varietals such as Nerello Cappuccio or Nerello Mascalese. On the other side of the globe, the volcanic soils of Napa Valley in California nurture the wines that French judges preferred at the Judgment of Paris.

The importance of terroir goes beyond its influence on wine, however. We should allow the word to include all things agricultural, and most of what we consume. Terroir determines the diversity of crops we grow (think specifically of coffee, tea and cacao)— and even has influence on livestock. Lamb raised in eastern Quebec is referred to as “pré salé” because it feeds on grass caressed by sea spray from the Gulf of St. Lawrence; New Zealand lamb is not only affected by the spray of the South Pacific, but also grazes on grass grown in volcanic soil. Both are excellent, yet different.

I believe there was a program on CTV last Saturday about volcanic wines that referred to the recently released book, Volcanic Wines by John Szabo. Canada’s first Master Sommelier, Szabo spent four years on this project, and his descriptive detail are a must-read for those interested in expanding their knowledge of wine.

John Szabo merits inclusion in the pantheon of wine writers for writing such a comprehensive, yet interesting, volume on volcanoes and wine.