On the cusp

Doing something just because one can isn’t always the best idea. Sometimes you need to consider what should be done. Making wine in Ireland is a cautionary tale. The difference between winter and summer in Ireland is basically the temperature of the rain. It will always be a challenge to get the amount of heat units to successfully ripen grapes.

But someone will always be tempted to tilt at windmills. Sweden has also taken on the quixotic quest to grow grapes in a marginal climate. Some hardy souls in the southern province of Skåne have found their longer summer days generate enough sunshine to successfully grow a wide variety of grapes such as Cabernet Franc, Léon Millot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. And besides, the “cool” climate of the rest of the year helps control insect and mould problems.

There are now upwards of 30 wineries in Sweden. There are, however, less than 250 acres of grapevines under cultivation. Most of these feature German hybrids like Rondo and Solaris that were first developed in the 1960s. (Weren’t these the same vines planted in the County in the early 1990s?) And just to make the quest more difficult, only the Swedish liquor board is permitted to distribute wine. Unless the owner owns and operates a restaurant, he cannot directly sell his wine. And his wine label cannot display a vintage. The Swedes must really detest an easy challenge.

Because of the difficulty in growing fruit, and the maze of rules and regulations, a bottle of Swedish wine can cost as much as $70. Swedish wineries should take tremendous pride in their wines, and the odds they have overcome.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Back here in the County, we are on the cusp edge of enjoying all the tasty new vintages about to be released by our local wineries. Just as the swallows returning to Capistrano flag the arrival of spring, the imminent release of our County rosés presage the upcoming months of summer-sippers and patios. Don’t reserve rosé for summer only, however. La Provence and the Rhône create mouthwatering rosés, enjoyed as a staple with with local cuisine all year long.

My first rosé of this season is Casa-Dea Estates Winery’s County-grown, 2013 Cabernet Franc Rosé ($14.95) that was crafted by resident winemaker Paul Battilana. Its washed-rose hue can be likened to the colour of a Tavel from the Rhône. Its nose is light spicy violet, with flavours of raspberry, strawberry, and a caress of marzipan on the finish. A balanced acidity makes this wine fabulous to enjoy on its own, or with food.

Casa Dea’s 2013 Rosé, will be released to the public on Mother’s Day weekend and is only available at the winery, at 1186 Greer Road, in Hillier.