Out of Africa

Pinotage is a South African, red wine grape that is recognized as that country’s signature variety. Developed in 1925, this varietal is a cross of pinot noir and cinsaut grapes. In South Africa, cinsaut is known as hermitage, so pinotage is an amalgam of pinot with a tail of age tacked on.

In 1925, Professor Abraham Perold attempted to cross these two varietals by planting some seeds in the experimental garden at the Stellenbosch University. He must have promptly moved on to other more pressing endeavours, because the garden became overgrown with weeds. Fortunately, the vines were rescued and moved to a different location for further experimentation and development, to find the best way to propagate the new varietal. By 1940, the first pinotage wine was made and began to make steady inroads into the wine culture of South Africa. In 1959, pinotage became the champion wine at that year’s Cape Wine Show.

Pinotage has always received mixed reviews, especially in Europe, where it is compared to drinking rusty nails—how one would know that taste profile defies all logic.

Even in its home country pinotage has its detractors. When the world markets opened for South African wine after the end of apartheid, there was a greater push to plant shiraz and cabernet sauvignon vines. Vintners bowed to common market tastes, rather than playing to their strength and offering a unique wine made from a new world varietal, grown in a very new world. Despite being a cross of two French varietals, pinotage is in no way influenced by old world flavours. It boldly produces deep red wines that take on smoky wild brambleberry and earthy flavours—with a potential to lay down for up to 25 years.

And why am I writing about pinotage? Well, gentle reader, I am simply thrilled to share that we have a local producer of this little gem—soon to be released for your enjoyment. Pat Del Gatto planted rows of pinotage some years back, confident that the varietal would thrive in the County. With this upcoming first release, the bold experiment is now a reality.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
A big shout-out to the wine producers of Prince Edward County, who won seven medals at this year’s Ontario Wine Awards. Frédéric Picard of Huff Estates should be very happy with his two golds, one for the fabulous 2010 Cuvée Peter sparkling wine and the other for the 2013 pinot noir.

Last Saturday’s Terroir event sparkled under an azure sky, and I visited as many producers as time allowed. I am happy to let you know that Broken Stone has released their latest vintage Chardonnay.

Spring is upon us. With sunshine and long lingering afternoons, it is almost de rigueur to imbibe a summer rosé. While I have many more to try, I was taken by the simplicity of Sanbanks 2014 Vidal Rosé, with its approach of citrus skin and field strawberry, boasting a lingering finish of pink grapefruit. Uncomplicated, and affordable at $12.95 a bottle, you will not be disappointed.