Passion and pride

In the course of your tasting room visits you have probably heard of wines—in most cases chardonnay—undergoing malolactic fermentation. This week, I will attempt to define this process and its impact on wine.

Malolactic fermentation occurs after primary fermentation. Malic acids—the tart acids found in Granny Smith apples—convert to lactic acids (found in buttermilk, butter, and yogurt). This conversion will give a chardonnay a more approachable, buttery feel on the palate. The down side, of course, is the loss of fruit profile: tartness has been exchanged for smoothness. Many winemakers will therefore only allow a portion of the wine to undergo malolactic fermentation, and then blend it with the original, unconverted batch—thereby retaining the fruit profiles while tempering the acids. This blending method is especially effective in chardonnays, since it brings forth the buttery complexity of malic acid while also promoting crisp, natural fruit flavors.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Last week, I had the opportunity to visit some vineyards located in the southern part of PrinceEdwardCounty. In particular, I made my first (long overdue) visit to Half MoonBay Winery. I highly recommend the journey. Their location is among the County’s best-kept secrets. Half Moon Bay Winery is at 3271 County Road 13, near Picton.

Head winemaker Brian Mitchell, along with wife Margie, oversee every aspect of operations. Their portfolio offers a extensive selection of small batch, hand-crafted wines made from estate fruit, using no synthetic pesticides or fertilizers—a practice which enables their vineyards to retain as much purity as possible.

The passion and pride with which Brian and Margie present their wines is inspiring. I was fortunate to taste my way through their portfolio, being especially taken by their 2012 Merlot ($24.95). This wine shows huge cassis and ripe raspberries on the nose—with a palate range of red fruit, prune, and Tahitian vanilla caressing the finish. Sublime.

Make a day of it and visit Long Dog, Exultat, Lighthall, Waupoos, Del-Gatto, and Devils Wishbone wineries. You will be astounded by the quality and range of wines from this area of the County.