Port passage

Wheels of Stilton cheese, rich steamed pudding and Christmas cake feature prominently this time of year in the British Isles. Little wonder that sales of all types of port seem to spike at Christmas: the seasonal bill of fare demands that additional little something to sate the appetite. A decanter of port is almost invariably then passed around.

The ritual of passing the port decanter is believed to derive from a time-honoured naval custom. The host serves the guest of honour seated to his right, who in turn, passes the decanter to the guest on his or her left (port) side. It continues around the table in similar fashion until it arrives back at the host, who pours their own glass. Only then, is it finally placed on the table. If it is put on the table prematurely, by one unfamiliar with port etiquette, it is incorrect to ask directly for it. Tradition demands, instead, that the host asks the person closest to the decanter if they have ever heard of such-and-such a person. The answer is invariably no. At this point the host would remark that the only flaw possessed by this virtuous paragon was that the so-and-so never passed the port.

It’s worth keeping in mind that port wine is fortified, and can have an alcohol content of 18 per cent or more. A small glass (two or three ounces) is sufficient to fully appreciate the nuances and layers of flavour. Are you familiar with the glasses that are given at Terroir and Taste events? It would be the perfect vessel in which to serve port, as the neck is narrow thereby minimizing the exposure to oxygen.

A tawny port is a wonderful companion with game fowl or venison. Needless to say, the wine will benefit by decanting a few hours prior to dinner. If you opt for an older vintage or crusted port, I recommend you stand the bottle upright for at least 24 hours prior to decanting to allow sediments to settle.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I am continually amazed by the delicious port-style wines that are produced by our local winemaking talent. In my holiday world, these fortified wines make perfect fire-side sippers. They make a great gift for the cheese-lover or wine-savvy host or hostess— or, quite simply, to enjoy with friends.

Harwood Estates Vineyards produces a stunning, rich dessert wine that just begs for blue cheese and figs. Their 2011 Marquesa is a barrel-aged blend of Marquette and Cabernet Franc, retailing for $29 at the winery on the Loyalist Parkway, just west of Hillier.

Karlo Estates produces both a white and a red port-style wine. The white is a sumptuous aperitif wine, while the red is a more traditional, lip-smacking mouthful of flavour. Both wines are packaged in 500ml bottles and retail for $29. Karlo Estates is on the Danforth Road, northwest of Wellington.

If you are very lucky, you might find some of Del-Gatto Estate’s La Porta ($29). A cute play on words, La Porta in Italian could mean a door, while it might also refer to a port.

Pat only produced 20 cases of this silken delight: if you are lucky enough to get one or more of these 500ml bottles, be sure to keep one for yourself. Del-Gatto Estates is on County Road 8, in Cape Vesey. Call ahead to ensure availability.