Port wine

Prior to the Napoleonic wars, as the British established very strong trading ties with Portugal, they built an opulent Factory House in Oporto that exists to this day. The Factory was constructed to accommodate the merchants and its grandeur pays tribute to the importance of the trade between both nations. A similar concept here in Canada is the Hudson Bay Company who, in 1670, established trading posts in James Bay to handle the fur trade.

During the Peninsular War, it is believed that Arthur Wellesley and his staff dined in the Portuguese Factory House on more than one occasion. After 1814 the Factory became more of a private club, exclusive to the Port shippers. To this day, its members meet each Wednesday for lunch, after which port wine is ritualistically passed to the left. This custom originates from a time when the guest of honor was always seated to the left of the host and was accorded the first pour before the toast.

Port wine was transported down the Duero River in specially constructed boats called Rabelos. These crafts were designed with a low keel to facilitate navigation in the shallow waters of the river and were in use up to 1968, when the river was dammed to provide power for a hydroelectric plant. Nowadays the wine is transported to the port via large tanker trucks and the Rabelos are used as tourist attractions.

Next week, I’ll talk about the different styles of port.

This week, try the superb 2009 Pinot Gris from Huff Estates Winery ($19.95), with Lili’s clam recipes. This delightful wine, perfectly crafted by winemaker Frederick Pickard, is made from 100 per cent County fruit and shows that classic minerality of county wines. On first approach you get freshly grated lemon zest with lingering hints of marzipan. The flavours are light lemon curd and red grapefruit set over a structured acidity. It is great with seafood and fish and worth every penny.

Huff Estates Winery is located on County Rd. 1, just west of highway 62.