Positive influences

Last week marked the 50th anniversary of “The Judgment of Paris,” in which a panel of French experts determined that some Napa Valley wines tasted superior to competing French entries. That some of the judges mistook them for French wines is not surprising. The Americans had embraced European know-how, from vineyard management to wine production using French oak barrels.

This success was, in part, thanks to a Croatian vintner who is now a major contributor to the California wine industry. Mike Grgich learned his trade in his home country, spent two years in British Columbia and then emigrated to California. He ended up working at the iconic Chateau Montelena vineyard, where he played a major part in the creation of the chardonnay that was chosen at the Judgment of Paris.

that was chosen at the Judgment of Paris. Located at the north end of Napa Valley, Chateau Montelana’s vineyards and winery lie on the southern slopes of Mount Saint Helena, an extinct volcano that created the volcanic soil type prevalent throughout valley. The original vineyard was purchased by a Mr. Tubbs, who had prospered from the California Gold Rush and who consequently built a stunning estate (think Casa Loma in Toronto) with manicured gardens and lakes. Prior to prohibition, his winery was the seventh largest in Napa Valley.

Anyhow, Mike Grgich’s 1973 Chardonnay took first place at the Paris tasting. And, with the exception of a breakout of trichloroanisole (TCA)—the naturally ocurring compound that causes musty aromas and flavours in wine—in 2004 (which was professionally acknowledged and resolved), Chateau Montelena has consistently produced exceptional wines. Mike went on to purchase his own vineyard, where his merlots and zinfandels are always in demand. He also went back to his native Croatia after the breakup of Yugoslavia to establish a vineyard that produces zinfandel in the time-honoured manner.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
This week, I had the opportunity to taste the 2015 Huff Estates Pinot Gris. This wine is made from Prince Edward County fruit grown in Huff Estates’ South Bay vineyards.

Resident winemaker Frédéric Picard decided to produce this wine in steel tanks without the influence of wood. Allowing contact with the lees while in the tank positively influenced the structural integration of the wine— and, at the same time, added aroma, acidity and residual sweetness. Well played!

Just released, this treat is available for purchase at the winery tasting room, located on County Road 1, at $20 per bottle.