Quality control

Italian wines make an excellent case for strict quality regulation. Some truly sublime Italian wines benefit from a heritage that predates the rise of the Roman Empire. On the other hand, significant quantities of subpar offerings have tarnished the reputation of this wine region.

In order to compete with the French AOC laws, Italy introduced DOAC (denominazione di origine controllata) in the 1960s, to legislate quality and quantity. But there was a tad more leeway in the interpretation and enforcement of these laws in Italy than there was in France.

When only classic wines were granted DOAC status, these regulations were a success. But lesser, undeserving wines were soon included, and it became impossible to distinguish the good from the mediocre. It was a problem of quantity versus quality. The acceptable Italian yield is almost 45 per cent higher in some controlled areas than that from an equivalent French region. Italian rules also allow the blending of varietals to increase quantity. In the end, the law was unable to fulfill its mandate to guarantee quality.

This is not a reason, however, to avoid Italian wines. Many producers are quite circumspect in how they make their wine. In Tuscany there are top-notch Chianti producers— such as Castillo di Ama—that take great pains to minimize quantity in order to maximize quality. Farther north, there is the example of Soave, which maintains a high content of the Garganega varietal blended with as little Trebbiano as possible. And then there are timeless classics such as Brunello, Barolo, or Amarone that are defined by the rigorous standards established within their regions.

A new wave of interest in Italian wine has been inspired by the IGT (indicazione geografica tipica) classification. Under IGT, varietals that are not indigenous to Italy are either blended with traditional varietals, or showcased alone. The idea is to promote the wine of a defined geographic region.

We are fortunate in Ontario because LCBO buyers and tasters use their own criteria to present the best that Italy offers in their bimonthly catalogue.

The perfect red wines to accompany a Christmas turkey dinner are Pinot Noir and Gamay. Bigger wines like Cabernet Sauvignon or Zinfandel tend to overpower this native fowl of North America.

There is an abundance of Pinot producers within Prince Edward County. Each crafts a wine to reflect the winemaker’s style, the age of the vines, the vintage, and the location within the County. It’s not too late to visit some of our local wineries to select a bottle or two for Christmas dinner. Don’t forget to pick up a bottle of sparkling wine for the family toast, or as holiday gifts for the hostess or New Year’s Eve.

Merry Christmas!