Strange bedfellows

Major distributors of alcoholic spirits rarely invest in wineries because the profit margin is just not as lucrative. There is always the exception to the rule, however. This week I want to talk you about an iconic winery located primarily in the Napa Valley: Beringer.

Founded in 1875, Beringer is designated as the oldest continuously operating winery in the Napa Valley. Over time they became expert at developing and marketing amazing wines. After the Prohibition years, they created a cachet by using the star power of Hollywood to promote their wines. It was a true California success story.

But the fortunes of the Beringer name are a cautionary tale to large multinational companies. In 1971, the Beringer family sold the vineyards, the winery—and the name—when Nestle made an offer they couldn’t refuse. (I always felt that this was a marriage of strange bedfellows.) In 1996 Nestle divested this asset to an Australian beer colossus. Fosters—as owner of such premium Australian labels as Penfolds, Rosemount and Lindeman’s (not to forget Little Penguin)—at least had some experience with wine production and distribution. This new partnership created an organization that produced over 35 million cases of wine per year. By 2011, however, Fosters recognized a need for “structural separation” and calved off what is now called Treasury Wine Estates. This organization employs over 4,000 workers worldwide and has vineyards in Europe, the Americas and Australia. The Beringer vineyards, by themselves, are today the 7th largest producer of wine in the United States.

But bigger is not necessarily better. There is nothing to compare to the passion and pride that small producers take when making their wine.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
This week I tasted the Keint-He Winery 2008 Pinot2, so named for its blend of pinot noir and pinot meunier grapes. The latter is one of the three varietals used in the production of Champagne: it adds to the fruit flavours and the elegance of chardonnay, while softening the potency of pinot noir. It has a similar effect in this blend, giving it a sun-washed brick hue, with a nose of saddle leather and red fruit. The palate is a surprising cornucopia of red fruits and cranberry with a dusting of mace. There is lots of acidity and an exceptionally long, lingering finish.

Pinot2 is available for $25 at the winery, located at 49 Hubbs Creek Road, just west of Wellington.