Sublime ice wine

Ice wine from European countries differs from its Canadian counterpart by the amount of sugar required in the grape juice prior to fermentation. Germany, Austria and Luxembourg require a sugar level in the mid-120 degrees on the Oechsle scale. Canadian ice wine needs a brix level of 35 degrees, which equals 153 degrees Oechsle.

The must weight—measured in the vineyard with the use of a refractometer—enables the winemaker to determine the sugar levels of the fruit, and help select the best time for harvest. Canada, France and Italy employ the brix scale of measurement. In Germany and Switzerland the must weight is measured in degrees Oechsle, that measures the must density of the grape must as opposed to the sugar level. In Germany, this measurement is also a critical component in determining wine classification.

Ice wine made from white varietals is light gold in colour when young, and then deepens to amber with age. Ice wines made with red varietals will take on the colour of a washed rosé wine.

nfortunately, some winemakers take shortcuts with ice wine. With cryoextraction, regularly harvested grapes are frozen and than pressed: the ice crystals remain in the press, and a more concentrated juice flows out. Ice wine made by this method is really a poor shadow of the real deal. Ice wine should be a labour-intensive gift that winemakers present for our bacchanalian pleasure.

Ice wine is to Canada as sauterne is to Bordeaux.  It is well suited as an accompaniment to rich appetizers such as foie gras, or as a wine to finish a festive feast.

By the time this goes to print, it might be too late to purchase some local ice wine for Christmas—but keep it in mind for New Year’s Eve dinner. Along with some of our County sparkling wines, ice wine will create a charming, memorable evening.

To all, a very Merry Christmas—and a safe and wonderful New Year.