Sunlight in a glass

We have been struggling to control the unruly grapevine since approximately 6,000 B.C.—when humans first began to cultivate this new source of food and beverage. Early grape growers had to learn ways to control its vigorous growth, and then train it to produce fruit.

For the first three years of its life, a grapevine will devote most of its energy to establish a root system. The vine will continue to spread, hooking on to an opportune tree or fence. Any branches touching the ground then establish new root systems. (Ever tried to clear wild grapes from your cedar bush?) All this vigorous growth occurs at the expense of fruit cluster development.

To foster fruit production, you need to train and harness the energy of the vine. The Greeks worked out a process in their homeland, industrialized wine production around the Mediterranean, and later exported this knowledge to Italy. The Romans learned to plant elm trees that allowed the vines to climb into the sunlight, while at the same time restricting the vine’s spread along the ground. Creating a cool, leafy arbor also provided protection from the sun, while at the same time providing fruit for the family wine press.

You would be hard-pressed to recognize a vineyard from ancient times.

Forget your preconceived ideas of vineyard rows marching in perfect lockstep, equidistant from each other and groomed to perfection. Early vineyards used small sticks to prevent vines from re-rooting in the ground. By suspending the fruit above the ground, damage caused by rot and rodents was kept to a minimum. Eventually, grape growing was wildly successful.

The Romans were not about to lose this hard-won knowledge. They recorded their observations on grape growing, wine production and storage. Virgil offered a piece of advice that rings as true today as then: “Vines love an open hill”.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
In keeping with the weather for first few days of March, I felt it only fitting to review the delicious Hillier Creek Estates 2012 Vidal Icewine ($20).

Almost like sunlight in a glass, this dessert wine will comfort you against the chilly nights. Beautiful aromas of candied Seville oranges are the gateway to flavours of marmalade infused with Munuka honey and Turkish apricot preserve. It provides a fabulous way to finish a meal or simply sip beside a blazing fire. (Yes, I am officially tired of winter.)

Packaged in a 200ml bottle, this treat is available at the tasting room of Hillier Creek Estates, 46 Stapleton Road, just off the Loyalist Parkway in Hillier.