Take the cabernet

Cabernet franc is one of the five main red grape varietals grown and blended within the Bordeaux region. First introduced into the Loire and Bordeaux wine regions of France in the 17th century by direction of Cardinal Richelieu, it was more commonly referred to by the name of Bouchet until the mid-to-late 18th century.

In 1997, DNA evidence proved what had long been suspected: Cabernet franc and sauvignon blanc, were the parents of cabernet sauvignon. Today in Bordeaux, cabernet franc is relegated to a back-up role for cabernet sauvignon. It could be worse: with the exception of two or three houses, the carménère varietal, although still grown and blended, is rarely used.

In the Chinon, Anjou and Saumur regions of the Loire valley, however, cabernet franc produces sumptuous wines. Even in Bordeaux, it is akin to the mouse that roars. It is the primary varietal in one of only four red wines to achieve the rank of Premier Grand Cru Classé in Saint Emilion: Château Cheval Blanc. Their vineyard is located almost cheek by jowl with another superb wine, Chateau Petrus, that is made exclusively from Merlot grapes.

In any event, cabernet franc is currently the chosen varietal in New World plantings. In China, Kazakhstan, North and South America, Australia and New Zealand, it has proven very adaptable to various regions and soil types. As a bonus, it also is suitable for cool-climate cultivation. So regions such as Washington State produce wonderfully inviting wines from this grape.

It is proving itself in Ontario and Prince Edward County, too. Some week’s back, I wrote about the wonderful 2012 cabernet franc crafted by Dan Sullivan of Rosehall Run Vineyards, as a testimony to the potential of this varietal. It only needed the conditions that allowed it to fully ripen and, more importantly, a winemaker who allowed the grapes to express themselves.

THIS WEEKS PICK
All this is my long-winded way of introducing this week’s find — a beauty that Geoff Hendricks put me on the scent of, two weeks ago. I refer to the 2013 Cabernet Franc produced by Bruno Francois of the Old Third Vineyard and Winery located on Closson Road.

Already having a cult following for his pinot noir, Bruno brings similar passion to cabernet franc with a wine that defies description. From the initial nose to the final mouthfeel, this wine transports one to a level of gratification that it leaves one in awe that such a wine could be made in the County. With a very small production, this wine is correctly priced at $42 a bottle.

Quite close by on Closson Road, Broken Stone has recently released a delightful white wine made from County-grown vidal fruit. Named Simplicity, this wine is dry with notes of candied citrus and tongue tingling acidity. Perfectly priced at $15, this wine is a definite summer sipper.