Taste something different

Mexico is not a country that one would associate with a thriving wine culture. But grapes have been grown there since the 16th century, when vines were established to meet the demands of the Church and the conquistadors.

As so often happens, the wine produced in Mexico surpassed, in flavour and body, that which was imported from Spain. And, of course, Mexican wine trade was then suppressed by the mother country. Independence from Spain allowed the new nation to follow its own path in all things, including winemaking.

Almost 90 per cent of Mexican wine is produced in Baja California, with the balance produced in northern states such as Sonora. The area’s Mediterranean climate makes it ideal for growing grapes and the cold Californian current allows fog to cool the vineyards along the coast. Traditional Bordeaux and Rhône red varietals are grown in the north; white varietals are cultivated in the south. While wine consumption is today slowly on the rise in Mexico despite heavy taxes, annual consumption remains less than two glasses per capita yearly. (Tequila and beer continue to be the chosen beverage.)

Not only is Baja California an amazing crucible for wine, it is also a nursery and breeding area for whales. Just like Prince Edward County, over 50 local wineries promote a wine route extending from the port of Ensenada (120 kilometres south of San Diego) to the southern tip of the peninsula. Similar to the County, the area also is famous for local cheese festivals and talented and inspired artists.

Mexican wines are rarely available in Canada. Except for the Mexican embassy in Ottawa, the L.C.B.O. is your best source for interesting Mexican wines. If you find an opportunity to taste something different, do so, for it makes life so much more interesting.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Deborah Paskus, winemaker at Closson Chase Vineyards, has released a new wine, which I think will fare well with the beautiful weather this summer, and the gravlax starter on your patio. The wine in question is the 2011 Closson Chase Rosé made from Pinot Noir grapes.

The colour of this wine is reminiscent of the Roses of Tavel (South of France) with its deep orange brick hues. The welcoming aromas of ripe strawberries and light citrus compliment the earthy flavours of woodland fruit and a beautifully clean, refreshing finish. This delight is wonderful with food or simply as an apéritif as we wrap up yet another summer.

The wine is available at the winery and is only $19.95. Closson Chase Vineyards is located at 629 Closson Road, in Hillier.