Terroir

Terroir defines a unique combination of soil type, climate and topography. For wine, it is important to the health and survivability of grapes during the growing season. At harvest it affects the minerality and “brix” (sugar level) of the grapes. Winemakers throughout the ages have recognized that certain parts of their vineyards have special attributes. The Greeks marked the vineyard source on amphorae. The Romans produced fine wine for the upper class from specific areas, while the plebeians had to make do with run-of-the-mill wine of dubious provenance. Because of their literate discipline, the Benedictine (and companion order Cistercians) recorded how particular vineyards and their geographical locations— down to small parcels of stonewall-enclosed vineyards—could affect the quality of wine.

We continue to recognize the importance of terroir. In 2007, Prince Edward County was recognized as a “Designated Viticultural Area,” because the region embraces a broad spectrum of soil types and unique microclimates. The underlying Trenton limestone differs from the limestone of the Credit Valley or the Bruce Peninsula: take a look at the fractured cuts on Highways 62 or 49 while driving through the County. Because of this prevailing limestone base, we are similar to Languedoc, even though we are a cold climate wine region. Just like Languedoc, we have several different types of soil that influence the grapes. The incredible array of microclimates that exists between Hillier and Cressey is reminiscent of the diversity between Minerve and Côteaux du Languedoc. However, the guaranteed summer heat of Languedoc, which allows a constant decent harvest, marks the big difference to the crapshoot of the County. It is precisely this year-to-year variation in climate that makes each vintage of County-grown fruit unique. Add to this the fact that certain County vineyards will produce wine from particular rows or vineyards, and you truly have a special terroir that is well worth looking out for!

It is fitting to take a moment to pay respects to Patricia Kennedy, one of East & Main’s special friends. A lady who defined elegance, she usually started her visit with a glass of local sparkling rosé wine. Pat was always accompanied by her devoted life partner, and preeminent wordsmith, John (aka Jake) Kennedy, and often by their daughter Nicole. Their son, Chef Jamie Kennedy (of the always sold-out Hillier Fish Fry) delighted in accompanying them by always finding time in a busy schedule.

The County has a wide range of sparkling rosé wines and, at this time of year, new vintages are arriving to dazzle and delight. Lift a glass of delicious sparkling wine to toast “Dame Pat,” and reflect on our good fortune to be blessed with life partners and loved ones.