The birth of Pinotage

During the 1860s, wine exports to England peaked as the French and English governments sorted their differences and the preferential tariffs accorded to South African wines were no longer an issue. By the mid 1860s, the Phylloxeria blight arrived on the shores of South Africa, collapsing the industry for the better part of two decades. Vineyards were torn out to make room for other cash crops resistant to the pest.

Winegrowers endeavored to resurrect the industry by planting high yielding varietals, which produced wine in excess of market demand and inferior quality. To counter this, the South African government established a system of quality control similar in some ways to VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance). It was established to create policies for all aspects of the industry, thereby controlling the quality of wines, brandy, fortified wines and sparkling wine. These measures stabilized the industry and set the stage for the ongoing experimentation in the vineyards.

One of the success stories for the organization was the crossing of Pinot Noir with Cinsaut, giving birth to the Pinotage varietal. Pinotage had developed a strong following in Europe and was quite popular in Canada prior to boycott of South African products due to its apartheid policies. Post-apartheid wine producers showed a greater interest in planting marketable classic varieties, which command a better price in the international markets.

South Africa, as with all wine growing areas, has its unique share of challenges. When you consider its location, you realize climate is a great challenge; at the Cape of Good Hope, two oceans meet and the cold Antarctic sea currents sweep north. Despite this, the area enjoys an agreeable Mediterranean climate, producing big powerful red wines and at the same time delicate and understated whites. This is a wine region well worth exploring in the vintage section of the L.C.B.O.

Next week, we are off to Australia.

I love leg of lamb on the grill. This fabulous 2007 “Northfield” Cabernet Franc, from the Grange of Prince Edward ($34.80) is outstanding. The fruit for this treat was carefully selected and o ly certain barrels were chosen for aging. With this wine you will enjoy inviting red fruit aromas with new saddle leather, cedar and tobacco leaf. Rich flavors of black raspberry and ripe cherry are enhanced by the typical limestone minerality of the County, silky tannins and a sexy lingering finish.

The Grange of Prince Edward is located at 990 Closson Rd.