The Devastator

Phylloxera, a tiny, almost microscopic, pale yellow sapsucking insect, related to aphids, feeds on the roots and leaves of grapevines, depending on the phylloxera genetic strain. This results in deformation of roots and secondary fungal infections, which can girdle roots, gradually cutting off the flow of nutrients and water to the vine. Nymphs also form protective galls on the undersides of grapevine leaves of some varietals and are typically only found on leaves of American vines.

So, the early plantings of European vines in North America enjoyed little or no success due to extreme climate and these tiny phylloxera aphids; however, vines native to North America were, by and large, immune to this plague. Until the advent of the steamship passage between Europe and North America, this pest did not survive the transatlantic voyage. Once transit time was reduced to less than two weeks the insect was able to survive in potted plants or indeed root cuttings for European experimentation.

Phylloxera first made its appearance in Provence as early as 1863, heading north into the Rhone Valley and beyond, wreaking havoc in its wake. In 1868, French entomologist Jules-Emile Planchon and his assistants discovered the cause of this plague and upon close examination of these pests gave them the name Phylloxera Vastarix (the devastator). By the turn of the century, this pest had affected all French vineyards and was making headway into Italy and Spain.

Alternatively, in Languedoc, France, it was discovered the louse was unable to survive in sandy soils, so grape growers invested heavily in the plantings of vineyards to provide wine to the French market. Interestingly, areas such as Patagonia in Argentina, Columbia River in Washington State and southeast Austria, share a similar natural barrier to this pest. The Languedoc region is still producing stunning wines from vines that survived this era. It was during this time that Algeria—then a French colony in North Africa—planted great acreage of vines and shipped both wine and grapes to France. Presently, they still grow grapes but only to export the fruit to France.

Fresh local strawberries have arrived and so has summer! The Grange of Prince Edward has just released a delicious and very versatile 2010 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc ($24.75). This wine has a washed yellow gold hue; the aroma is a heady bouquet of spiced ground cherry marmalade; and the first sip is a flirty key lime pie with a hint of fresh cherry on the finish. The tidy, well balanced acidity, combined with a refreshing nine per cent alcohol and not a trace of cloying viscosity make this a wonderful wine to complement appetizers, desserts and cheeses.