The French connection

Last week we addressed the VQA designation that is applied to wine from fruit grown within the wine regions of Canada. This week I want to continue the series by examining French classifications.

Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée first applied to food. The original AOC was granted to Roquefort cheese by parliamentary decree in the 15th century. Modern laws were not introduced until 1919, were updated in the 1930s, and underwent further changes throughout the 50s, 60s, and 70s. Eventually these strict rules and regulations applied to select cheeses, butter, lavender oil, meats and even lentils (“Le Puy” green lentils).

As far as wine goes, Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée applies to approximately 28 per cent of French wine production. There are some 400 AOCs, defining almost 1 million acres, as areas in France where premium wine is almost exclusively produced. The AOC label indicates from where the wine comes. It regulates the grape varieties, harvest and yield restrictions, alcohol content and quality (subject to a blind tasting) in that controlled area.

The next tier down is the designation Vin Délimité de Qualité Supérieure. VDQS rules are somewhat more relaxed, allowing higher yields and lower alcohol content. It could be argued, all the same, that wines of this category are the equals of the first tier. These wines represent less than two per cent to the French wine production.

The third level of wine is Vin de Pays (“regional wine”) representing 13 per cent of French wine production. This newest category was created to prohibit the flow of inferior wine. Vin de Pays is produced from a wide range of grape varieties. High yields are allowed, which, in some cases, diminishes the quality of the wine. These wines reflect their origin on the label, and are approachable at reasonable prices.

The final level is the Vin de Table, produced for everyday consumption. These wines— produced for short-term consumption—are not obliged to show their grapes’ origins on the label. This category represents 45 per cent of grape production in France. (The remaining 12 per cent are used in distilling Cognac and Armagnac.)

Frankly, I never understood why the French are considered to be bureaucratic.

‘Tis the season to discover unique gifts for friends and families.

Wines from Prince Edward County make wonderful gifts. Over the coming weeks, drop by your favorite winery and purchase a bottle or two to be shared with family and friends. If you patronize local wineries to purchase wines for the upcoming festivities (be they house parties or dinners) you can be sure of a wide range of choice.

Please don’t drink and drive.