The fruit of seeds and skins

Many wineries throughout Europe complete their cycle by distilling the “pomace” of seeds, skins and stems left over from pressing grapes. In Italy — and the Italian Swiss Cantons — this spirit has the E.U. protected name Grappa. Its raw form packs a wallop.

Distillation is done by steam since the pomace solids would burn in direct contact with flame. Methane, a toxic by-product of the distilling process, is carefully removed. All these requirements explain the Italian law requiring pomace to be sold and produced only by reputable grappa distillers.

Grappa is bottled as a clear spirit, but some producers age the spirit in wood and these “grappe” take on a light amber hue. They vary in style as much as wines, taking on characteristics of the grape varietals from which they are distilled: a grappa made from the pomace of Sangivose will differ from that made from Nebbiolo.

Grappa is best enjoyed with an espresso at the end of a meal, to aid digestion. If you have the opportunity, the best way to do a grappa tasting is to drink a small glass of milk between each grappa, in order to reset the palate (not to mention line the stomach). If you find grappa too harsh, however, Italy also makes a more refined distillation of grape “must,” known as an acquavite d’uva that is similar to a brandy.

There are many fine grappa producers whose product is available in Ontario through the L.C.B.O.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Last week I was inspired to dust off the barbecue, load up a fresh tank of propane, and start grilling. I grilled vegetables and a couple of nicely aged striploins.

I decided to match this spring treat with a bottle of the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon from Harwood Estates ($29). This carefully crafted wine is made from Niagara grapes and is a complete delight. The color is a deep rich ruby, with layered aromas of cedar, red fruits and cigar leaf. The palate is reminiscent of a West Coast Cab’s deep, red fruit flavors, with hints of wild eucalyptus and spice peeking through. The deep, lingering fruit finish is balanced with correct tannins — without an overly acidic finish. I wished I had a second bottle.

Harwood Estates is located at 18908 Loyalist Parkway, just west of Hillier.