The god of wine

Romania has one of the oldest winemaking traditions in the world, its viticulture dating back more than 6,000 years. Within European countries, perhaps only Greece has an older tradition in winemaking than Romania.

Local legend submits that Dionysus, the god of wine was born in the southeast of Romania.

Romania, or Dacia as the Romans knew it, had a well-established wine culture. The abundance of food and fame of the Dacian wines were so well known and tempting that, to put an end to the migratory people’s repeated invasions, the king decreed that the vineyards be torn out in the 1st century B.C.

In the Middle Ages, Saxon tribes migrating from Germany brought with them vines they were familiar with and so from that time onwards the wines had a Moselle/Rhine influence and style.

In more recent times, the Romanian viticulture knew several distinct stages, each with its specific impact upon the country’s wine industry. Thus the 19th century, right up to the outbreak of the First World War, was characterized by ample and close links with France. In the viticulture sector these links culminated with the French wine growers’ advice and practical help extended after the last two decades of the 19th century, when phylloxera hit Romania. The result was that much of the post-phylloxera replanting was carried out using French vine varieties: Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and others.

During the communist rule (1948-1989), three distinct types of wine-producing organizations developed: research institutes, wine estates, and co-operative vineyards linked to state wineries. The emphasis was put on quantity rather than on quality. Nevertheless, the Romanian wines used to get many important awards in the international contests.

The liberalization of the economy after 1989 has led to a series of profound changes in the Romanian wine industry. The “co-operative” vineyards have been returned to their private owners and the research institutes currently strive to redefine their core role in the vine and wine sector.

Today within the EU Romanian wines enjoy huge shelf space in the western supermarkets because of price point and quality.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Robert and Sally Peck of Sugarbush Vineyards are about to release their 2010 Cabernet Franc ($25). This special wine will be launched to celebrate the beginning of Wassail on November 19, 2011. Robert uses only 100 per cent estate grown, specially selected fruit to create this fuller bodied style of Cabernet Franc. And the timing is perfect to team up with this year’s game catch.

Lots of bright red fruit and Mexican chocolate fill the palate with a lingering tobacco and cassis finish. There were only 50 cases made so this wine will not be available for long and boy was it delicious with venison roast!