Keen on Argentine

The land of tango is inherently passionate about wine. Argentina, colonized by the Spanish in the early 1500s, followed the well-worn path of establishing vineyards to sustain the local demand and supply of sacramental wine for the Catholic missionaries.

In 1557, the Jesuits established vineyards in Santiago by planting mission grapes imported from Chile. This varietal known locally as Criolla became the backbone of the Argentinean wine industry for almost 300 years.

As settlers established their presence in the western provinces of Mendoza and San Juan, they utilized the water conservation practices developed by the Incas. They captured the water runoff from the Andes in dams, then allowed the water to flow down through canals, as required. This system is still practised to this day as farmers and vine growers must apply for a licence to use water, which makes municipal water access challenging.

One of the greatest influences in wine making originated from an Argentine national figure fondly referred to as “the teacher”—Domingo Sarmiento. Prior to his elevation to the Argentinean presidency, Sarmiento travelled through Europe. Upon returning he was made governor of his home state of San Juan and commissioned the importation of the Malbec vine. I had occasion to visit his home, which showcases a 200-year-old vine planted in the centre of his courtyard.

For Malbec, the climate and terrior in Argentina was a brilliant marriage. As a result, a railway was built between Mendoza and Buenos Aires in 1885, to provide wine to the eastern cities.

Argentina was a land of immigrants, inviting settlers from such diverse places as Wales, Germany and Italy. The Italians brought with them their vines and more importantly their winemaking knowledge. Argentina benefited greatly from the phylloxera plague, as the pest did not survive in the foothills of the Andes. This success brought winemakers flocking to Argentina, bringing their expertise and vines with them.

I just love a refreshing wine…this week I tried the Rosehall Run Vineyards 2007 Riesling, made with grapes from Fieldstone Vineyards and created with the usual dexterity and attention by Dan Sullivan.

If you enjoy a crisp bouquet of citrus and stony minerality with pungent mouthfuls of grapefruit and fresh lemon with a crisp mineral finish, well, this is the wine for you; light in alcohol, approachable and affordable at just under $12. It is perfect for these hot humid days.

Rosehall Run Vineyards is located on Greer Rd. in Hillier.