The nose knows

We are blessed with a fabulous piece of equipment with which to identify the mysteries that lie within a freshly poured glass of wine. Directly connected to the brain, our sense of smell acted as an early warning system for our ancestors. As air passes through the top of the nasal passage, just behind your nose, it is drawn across hair-like projections. Odour molecules adhere to these cilia, triggering neurons that warn of possible danger. We can all identify the smell of the mushroom farm when the wind blows a certain way, or when the farmers are spreading organic fertilizer—not displeasing—merely natural. Humans have the ability to distinguish over 10,000 different smells. However, we lag way behind the ability and range of animals such as dogs or wolves.

This equipment also works well for wine. Smell the wine in the glass. If it smells of wet cardboard, re-cork it and get your money back where you purchased the wine. If in a restaurant, send it back before the server pours wine for your guests so the establishment can return the wine. Don’t bother smelling the cork, however, as it will most likely smell like cork. Just compress it between thumb and middle finger to confirm that it has not dried out and will spring back to its original shape.

On the opposite side of the coin, smell can also provide positive feedback. Real estate agents recommend the welcoming aromas of fresh-baked cookies when showing a property. I just love the smell of a new car, or of freshly baked bread.

To a certain degree, smell allows you to experience the full gamut of fruit profiles and minerality that are released when wine is poured into a glass and exposed to air. It will alert you to the potency and alcohol level of the wine. The smell of a wine changes as the wine matures. If you maintain a wine cellar, I always recommend taking notes: when you revisit a wine of a particular vintage, you will have a record of its evolution.

Every individual has a unique olfactory sensitivity— some are more alert to certain smells. A different personal response to a wine should therefore not be discounted. We all experience the wonders of wine in our own fashion and at our own pace.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Domaine Darius is a fabulous new addition to the PrinceEdwardCounty constellation of wineries. Recently opened, they proudly showcase their wines in a breathtaking setting located down a country lane. You are compelled to walk through their gorgeous gardens to access the tasting room.

And what a gem. My experience at Domaine Darius was super. David and Joni Gillingham authentically handcraft their wines in small production, offering up a compact repertoire of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and a very impressive Gewürztraminer. There is a lot of attention to detail here, inspiring wine lovers and critics alike. The wines are labelled with the vintage hand inscribed on each beautiful bottle. Nice touch.

Domaine Darius is at 1316 Wilson Road, right beside Sugarbush Vineyards, in Wellington. Well worth a visit.