The Pope’s vintage

This week I want to pay tribute to the iconic wine region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is located in the southern Rhône valley of France, around the town of Avignon.

This area has been historically strategic since Neolithic times, settled in turn by Celts, Romans, Goths, Francs and Saracens, until it was brought under the influence of the Kingdom of France around the year 1220. Though in close proximity to the French, Châteauneuf-du-Pape enjoyed relative freedom from their king. The Count of Provence ruled the region until purchased by Pope Clement V. And it remained a papal state up to assimilation by the new French Republic during the Revolution.

In 1308, Pope Clement V moved the Papacy from Rome to Avignon, to a “new” Pope’s castle. This, of course, provided the origin of the name for the area’s wine: Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The new residence of the Pope was built on a rock spur overlooking the town of Avignon and its bridge, the Pont d’Avignon, which spanned the river Rhône. The various popes and papal courts that remained in residence in the castle (until 1388) developed a taste for the local wine. Vineyards were thus established north of Avignon to supply the needs of the papacy during this time. To this day, bottles of Chateauneuf-du-Pape display the papal symbol of crossed keys on each bottle.

The wine can be blended with up to 13 different varieties of both red (Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Terret Noir, for example) and white grapes (Grenache Blanc, Picpoul and Roussanne, to name a few). To accommodate today’s tastes, however, the blend is mostly Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre. In the late 1970s, this wonderful wine was a sublime bargain. Once the U.S. wine critic Robert Parker extolled the virtues of the wine, however, its price increased four-fold. All the same, there are still wonderful Châteauneufs on the market that will not break the budget.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Rosehall Run Winery has released their 2010 Unoaked Chardonnay ($17.95), produced by winemaker Dan Sullivan.

The first thing to catch the eye is an elegantly understated new label, reflecting confidence in the contents of the bottle. The light straw hue promises the floral notes of apricot, lychee, pear, and wildflower honey that are typical of a Chardonnay Musqué. The palate is a mouthful of very clean lemon citrus, Granny Smith apple and fresh apricot, with a crisp mineral finish.

This treat is well worth the trip to the new tasting room located at 1243 Greer Road, in Hillier.