Throw a pot

Just about the same time mankind developed the potter’s wheel (about seven to eight thousand years ago), we fortuitously discovered how to make wine. We learned to create vessels to store grains, liquids and fruits—along with a precious new gift.

Standards in pottery sizes and shapes developed over time. The more commonly known vessel, the amphora, was made in a wide variety of sizes (just as today’s glass containers). Great vessels known as “Pithos” had the capacity to contain over 2,000 litres. Eventually, however, amphora size settled on the Roman standard of 39 litres. The shape of amphorae was perfect for creating and holding wine. It allowed contact over a wide area, with a narrow pointed base to collect the lees, and a narrow neck to eliminate spoilage when properly sealed. Despite the invention of the barrel (sometimes attributed to the Gauls around 400 B.C.), amphorae were mass-produced and used for transporting oils, wine, fish and olives right up to the 7th century.

At what point in time wooden barrels were first used in the production of wine is difficult to determine. Ancient historians note that barrels made from palm trees were used to transport wine in the eastern river systems. The wooden barrels with which we are familiar were used extensively throughout the Roman Empire, mainly for the shipment of dry goods. The effect that wood (especially oak) had on wine was noticed only later, when winemakers began to more commonly use barrels for storage. Up to the 19th century barrels were the primary container used to make and store wine.

About that time producers began to build concrete tanks to make wine. Concrete tanks allow for stable, controlled temperature during fermentation: the lack of wood allows fruit notes to shine. The effect is much like the kwevris (a fired clay jar that is still used in Georgia) which is buried in the ground to control fermentation; and help in storage. Like the original pottery vessels, concrete vats are manufactured in various sizes. They are still very popular, and are used extensively by winemakers in Europe and South America. Here in the County, Glenn Symons of Lighthall Vineyards has a concrete tank in which he ferments memorable Pinot Noirs.

Next week: steel, plastic—and which came first?

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Scheduled for opening in May 2013, this week’s wine is a real “teaser.” Hubbs Creek 2010 Pinot Noir ($29.95) is beautifully crafted from 100 per cent County grapes by owner/winemaker John Battista Calvieri. It is beautifully rich in color, with deep aromas of spiced red cherry, pipe tobacco and vanilla. With balanced acidity, the palate is a generous mouthful of cherry with a hint of green olive and fennel.

John Battista will not likely release this beauty until he feels it is perfect. Put it on your calendar for follow-up in May.