Two worlds

Until recently, New World wineries mainly endeavored to reproduce classic French wines. Identification by region—not grape variety—reflected an enduring mystique that has been hard to dispel.

Copying the culture of an adjacent civilization is not a new phenomenon. The patrician class of Rome worked to produce wines in the Greek style, while demonstrating their erudition by speaking Greek. It is not surprising, therefore, that the dry white wines of the New World were initially named Chablis and the reds were called Burgundy. It is amazing, however, that Mediterranean immigrants to the new world did not import and plant vines with which they were familiar (such as Sangiovese or Tempranillio). Why not plant a grape better suited to the climate?

In a break with tradition, Americans began, in the 1950s, to market wine by varietal. By the mid 1970s, North America was going crazy over Californian Chardonnay, Cabernet or Pinot Noir. This shift in taste had a huge impact on the French wine trade. In the early 1980s, the Burgundian house of Louis Latour began export of two wines to the North American markets that featured the variety of grape on their labels. (These wines are now a mainstay on the shelves of the L.C.B.O. The label has not changed and the contents are dependable.) Emulation of another culture’s values had been turned upside down.

Having shattered the myth of French regional superiority, new world vineyards are now moving to introduce non-French old world varietals. I have come across pilot plantings of Sangioevse and Tempranillo in South America. And California produces wonderful Nebbiolo’s. Only time will determine the outcome of these experiments.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
This week, I happily tasted Rosehall Run Vineyards’ 2010 The Swinger Syrah ($34.95). This wine is crafted with County-grown fruit from the Fieldstone Vineyards in Hillier. Its name is, in part, a tribute to Dick Singer who, together with his son Steve, founded Fieldstone Vineyards with the vision to plant Syrah vines. In hotter climates, this grape varietal produces huge wines packed with flavour. In cold climates, such as ours, the varietal expresses a simple elegance, allowing the typical Syrah fruit flavours to flourish

The 2010 vintage was made from late-harvested, carefully selected, fruit. Winemaker Dan Sullivan was so particular in choosing the fruit for this wine that he only made 100 cases. The wine’s deep ruby color boasts a nose of preserved black cherries and vanilla custard. Layers of dark fruit and (spicy) Aztec chocolate fill the palate, finishing with a wellbalanced acidity. I found that “The Swinger” really opened up after revisiting the bottle two days after my initial tasting. I recommend, therefore, that you decant this wine to enjoy it fully.

The Swinger Syrah is available at the Rosehall Run Vineyards’ tasting room, located at 1243 Greer Road, in Hillier.