Warmth for the soul

Winter is a time for hibernation and rejuvenatio—not only for animals and humans, but also for plants. In wine country, vines go into dormancy, recharging until that true harbinger of spring, when buds break. Vineyards begin winter work as soon as the vines lose the last of their leaves: pruning the old wood, and leaving only the buds specified by the vineyard manager. In the County, workers additionally tie down and bury the vines in order to protect the buds from the ravages of winter. In the spring, the process is reversed, uncovering the vines carefully, to avoid damage to the buds.

This winter’s cold will be challenging, as vinifera grapevines suffer considerable damage when temperatures drop below -21º Celsius. In many areas in Europe, a blanket of snow insulates and protects the canes during the winter months. In California, vines simply go dormant since temperatures rarely fall below what would compromise their health.

Richard Johnston, of By Chadsey’s Cairns, has noted that every decade will have at least three winters that are exceptionally challenging for Prince Edward County grape growers. Since protective techniques are so laborious and very costly—and the losses of vines are uncertain—County wines tend to demand a higher price.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
This type of weather begs a good book and a glass of rich red wine to warm the soul. Catherine Langlois, proprietor/winemaker of Sandbanks Estates Winery, has just released a limited amount of 2012 Cabernet Franc Reserve. This rich, deep garnet wine has a warm inviting nose of black raspberry and mace; the palate is layered with prune and spices, lingering to a modest oyster shell mineral finish.

Sandbanks Cabernet Franc Reserve retails for $29.95 and is available at the winery located 17598 Loyalist Parkway, just west of Wellington. There is very limited availability, so don’t miss out.