Water of life

In the past few weeks, we’ve seen how Europe’s introduction to the secret of distilling arts opened a veritable Pandora’s box of alcoholic “evils.” And yet everyone described the resulting cornucopia as the “Water of Life.”

The Latin “aqua vitae” underwent a variety of local interpretations. The Swedes gave the name “aquavit” to their grain spirit, flavoured predominantly with caraway seeds and herbs, that they serve chilled at smorgasbords. The Irish translated it to “uisce beatha” which has, for the common good, been anglicized into “whisky.” Others simply used their word for water: “vodka” for the Russians, and “wodka” for the Poles. Everyone somehow managed to fit “water” into their description of distilled spirits. This allows me introduce you to the wonderful world of “eaux de vie.” If you can grow fruit, you can also distill a spirit that will warm your heart during a long winter. A thriving, widespread industry grew from this basic philosophy. If you find yourself in the Balkan Mountains, just inland from Dubrovnik, you might be introduced to a plum brandy called “slivovitz.” (Beware: taken in excess it will cause a lost weekend.) In Germany, the word “schnapps” is the generic description for all fruit brandies, “kirshwasser” being the most popular. (Translated it means cherry water — some cherry, some water!) Germany, to this day, enjoys the highest number of private distillers who, subject to government tolerance, produce schnapps for their own consumption. Switzerland and France excel in the production of fruit brandies: the “framboise” of Alsace is truly notable, as is the “Poire William” produced in the canton of Valais. In Oregon, fine eaux de vie are produced by the Cold Creek Distillery. (Unfortunately, their production is only available within the United States.) Here in Canada an eau de vie is produced from maple syrup.

An eau de vie is distilled clear and served chilled as a digestif. The fruit aromas in the glass are magnificent, and yet the spirit is bone dry — since the natural fruit sugars have all been transformed into alcohol. In Switzerland, small sugar cubes are served on the side for dipping into the spirit, so you may add sweetness according to your taste. The Swiss also developed a method of growing a pear inside a bottle. They then fill these bottles with eau de vie de Poire William. (Truly a great sales gimmick that takes up valuable alcohol space.) These fruit brandies are a fabulous alternative to Cognac, and can be found in the vintage section of the L.C.B.O.

And we still haven’t considered the ubiquitous apple. France is home to “calvados,” a distilled spirit that deserves a week by itself. So, next week we will travel north to Normandy.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Debra Paskus has done it again…Closson Chase Vineyards has released their 2009 Churchside Pinot Noir ($49.95). This wine made from 100 per cent P.E.C. fruit, is full of finesse with a nose of cherries and violets integrated with some leather and anise. The palate is ripe and elegant with bright fruits, lingering tannins, structured acidity and a cigar box finish. Well worth the price and will benefit from cellaring. Only 93 cases produced so don’t wait.