Weathering the storm

Last winter epitomized the challenges that crop husbandry can face in North America and, more locally, the deep impact weather can have on the potential grape harvest in Ontario.

Niagara crops of Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot are almost completely destroyed this year. Vines on Lake Erie’s north shore are also drastically reduced—if not wiped out. Even cold climate hybrids in the County were affected. Vineyards in the County were protected, for the most part, by the labour-intensive practice of hillingup the vines before the icy grip of winter took hold of the vineyards. This year, it was a fortunate precaution. The loss in production in both Niagara and Erie’s north shore can be attributed to the fact they did not practice this method of protecting the vines.

Talk to winemakers and you will understand this year’s challenges. A late start and a seemingly continuous rainfall means that vines require constant monitoring for mildew. As I write, vines are, on average, twelve to fourteen days behind their normal growth pattern. Fortunately, the forecast calls for a hot, dry September that will allow grapes to ripen more fully.

Then it will be up to the winemakers to work their magic and create wines that reflect the challenging growing conditions of 2014. Coping with the weather makes each vintage different and unique.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I dropped by Harwood Estates and purchased two of their latest releases: the 2013 Pinot Gris and the 2013 Gewurztraminer.

The latter is a tasty mouthful, with traditional aromas of rose water and a hint of mandarin skins; the palate is freshly-peeled lychee fruit, pink grapefruit marmalade and a five-spice finish.

This delightful wine retails for $20 and is available in the tasting room at 18908 Loyalist Parkway, just west of Hillier.