What’s in a glass?

When last together we we leaving Venice in the 1300s in the company of rogue glassmakers, who risked life and fortune to spread their craft across Europe. They were successful: for the next two centuries, glassware production centers sprang up throughout Europe.

Glass production, however, remained a labor-intensive process. In 1676 George Ravenscroft discovered that introducting lead oxide to the base of lime and pure silica sand produced a far more brilliant “sparkling” glass. Despite many improvements, glassware continued to be handcrafted and polished by the application of heat and hand sanding. Stemware therefore continued to be exclusively used by the upper classes.

As the Industrial Revolution gathered momentum, new factories began to mass-produce glassware. Stemware became available to the new middle class, and then later to all segments of society. Glasses of that era, however, were different to that which we use and enjoy today. (Visit a local museum, such as Macaulay House, to see examples of the size and shapes of stemware from those early days.) Then, as now, specific stemware was matched to a particular wine or spirit.

But styles have changed with time. Perhaps the best example is the evolution of the sparkling wine glass. Despite what you’ve heard, the English aristocracy were drinking bubbly from a Champagne coupe developed a hundred years prior to Marie Antoinette’s breast. The coupe remained extensively in use up to the 1960s, when it was correctly replaced by the elegant flute glass. Apart from traditional glassware used in certain European countries (the hock glass of Germany and Austria for example), stemware design underwent a seismic shift around that time. Bowls began to increase in size and shape— allowing the wine to open up—providing the ultimate in experience of aromas and flavors. Norm Hardie, for example, serves his County Chardonnay at his winery in a glass very specific to the style of this wine. And, yes, you can tell the difference both on the nose and on the palate because of his choice of glass.

I remain, alas, a throwback, since I enjoy my wine in a traditional Italian trattoria glass. To each his own…

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Rosehall Run Vineyards has released their 2011 Sullyzwicker White ($14.95). On first impression this is a perfect summer wine. Winemaker Dan Sullivan has put together a blend of seven different Countygrown varietals. The hue of sun-bleached straw fills the glass, with aromas of honey, candied grapefruit and lime; a refreshing mouthful of lemon and white grapefruit lingers to a bright finish.

This summer delight is available at their tasting room located at 1243 Greer Road in Hillier, or at your local L.C.B.O.