What’s in a (grape) name

Nowadays, we customarily choose wine by its grape varietal name (i.e. Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon) but this option is not always available, notably with wines from Europe.

California growers heavily promoted varietal wine marketing in the late 1970s, and consumers gravitated toward this method of selecting their wines. Instead of ordering a glass of white or red, it became normal, for example, to order a glass of Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. Europeans carefully observed the success of this marketing and, in the early 1980s, the esteemed Burgundian wine house of Louis Latour introduced its own Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to North America. Depending on the vintage, both of these wines are excellent, and Latour’s label change regained — and in many cases improved — their market share.

Not all Europeans have jumped on the varietal bandwagon, however. In Tuscany, Chianti is made from the Sangioevse grape, but its producers have felt no need to make a varietal declaration. In Piemonte, Barolo, Barbaresco and Gattinara are all made from the Nebbiolo grape — but they are not sold by that varietal name, since terroir plays a huge part in the stylistic difference of these wines. In Spain, the red wines of Rioja are made from a blend of Tempranillo and Grenache, but they are identified simply as Rioja Vino Tinto. Wines from the lower Rhône are blends of up to 14 different varieties of grape in the final product, while in the upper Rhône, superb red wines are made from Syrah grapes. (Neither area markets wine by their grape varietal name.) In Languedoc and Bordeaux, the established houses rely on their name to market wines that are, in fact, traditional regional blends.

In the new world it is simple to select a wine by its varietal name. Do your homework on European wines, however, and the depth of flavor that they offer will amaze you. When in doubt, ask questions at your friendly L.C.B.O Vintages outlet.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I tasted the Huff Estates 2010 Chardonnay today, and consider it to be a perfect fit with Lili’s rosemary foccacia and olive oil. Uncomplicated aromas of poached pear and mace accompany the inviting golden washed-straw hue. The palate is a blend of Colby cheese and sundried pear, finishing with fresh grapefruit zest.

Fredric Picard deftly crafts the grapes for this unoaked treat that were sourced from the Bench in Niagara. The price is only $17.95 a bottle and it is available in the L.C.B.O. or at Huff Estates Winery located at 2274 County Road 1 in Bloomfield, just west of Highway 62.