What’s in a leaf?

Grape varietals are generally identified by the shape of their clusters, their size and their colour. But they can also be classified by the shape and size of the vine leaves.

Some time back I wrote a column about how the carmenere varietal had been rediscovered in Chile in 1994. By carefully examining the shape of the leaf of what had been considered a clone of merlot, Professor Jean-Michel Boursiquot, from the Montpellier School of Oenology, identified the mystery vine as an early-ripening Bordeaux carmenere. In 1998 the Chilean department of Agriculture subsequently recognized carmenere as a distinct variety.

Before clusters of fruit obscure the vine is an opportune time to examine the difference in grape leaf shapes in many County vineyards. Sandbanks identifies the varieties in their vineyard; in other estates you can compare three or four different vines planted alongside each other. Tasting room staffs are usually well-informed and enjoy answering questions about their vineyards. If you are lucky, you may have your questions answered by the owner, vineyard manager, or the winemaker

Always ask permission, or wait for an invitation, before wandering into a vineyard.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
While passing by Barley Days Brewery, I was fortunate to notice a rather unusual offering advertised on their display board. 3- Horse Hitch is a “schwarzbier” (dark beer), whose recipe roots from the mid-13th century can be traced to the German district of Lower Saxony. Dark malt, used in its brewing process, gets its color during the roasting process. Similar in ways to a stout, schwarzbier has the mocha coffee flavour and dark color that is usually attributed to a porter.

Barley Days produced a limited quantity of this refreshing lager, which is a perfect match to a ploughman’s lunch or aged Black River Cheddar. If you enjoy the taste of imported beers, save yourself some money and invest locally. Help support their willingness to work with other time-tested recipes besides their ever-popular selection of artisanal ales and lagers. You will not be disappointed in the quality or the price of $13.95 for a six-pack.

Barley Days Brewery is located on the Loyalist Parkway, just west of Picton. Most of their selection is available in the LCBO, but this special beer is only available at the brewery.